Tuesday, November 4, 2008

el calafate: glaciers & spandex.

Just returned to a heating up Buenos Aires after a few weeks of trotting this grand country of surreal landscape. Patagonia did me well. Hard to describe the essence of that territory below...so overwhelmingly peaceful, and rugged, and spacious. "Magical" was a term thrown around quite liberally, both in my journal as in conversation with those I met on the road. Allow me to do my best in sharing with you all some of that magia encountered...

First stop was El Calafate, a touristy pueblito of chocolate shops, gift stores, and outdoor adventure companies- it's primary existence based on its close proximity to the Perito Moreno Glacier, a stepping stone to this Argentine "must see". I was warmly welcomed into Matias' house (from couchsurfing) upon my delayed arrival, given a key and his bedroom- he insisted and took the mattress on the kitchen/living room floor. Due to the wee size of Calafate, there are only a few couchsurfers and therefore the hospitable as ever Matias has hosted a whopping 150 plus couchsurfers from around the globe...interesting that he himself has never left Argentina. When he does cross the frontera, to wherever in the world he may go, no doubt he'll be taken care of. (He also told me that quite a few have actually lived with him, as in they came to Calafate and never left...one of his fondest couchsurfing memories is of the three Aussies who stayed for 6 months...!?!) I spent a few fabulously mellow nights hanging out with Matias and his roommate (also Matias) and their compadres. We talked California, reggae music, and family. I switched up their dinner diet for a night and prepared a dish of roasted veggies and lentils. And in that there warmed up casita of Matias, the mate flowed among us, as did the laughter. Cheers to Matias 1, 2, and crew.

Glaciertime. I was incredibly hesitant about dropping so much plata for the "minitrekking" on the glacier, but after speaking to a few locals, my hesitancy was swayed and I buckled. It turned out to be well worth it, not only allowing for a visible experience but a tangible one as well. Also met quite the cast of characters while out there on that massive hunk of ice in my spandex, including the comical Rita ("Rits" as I called her) from Florida who belted out key phrases like "holy frijoly", Tracey from Malaysia, a soft-spoken beauty...oh and let us not forget about Maureen from Florida (no connection to Rits), Janice #2 I tell you!!! The voice (to the T), the ceaseless questions, slightly off kilter socially...and oh that kooky spirit! I was in heaven, couldn't stop following her around. Most of you aren't familiar with this Janice lady I speak of, but for those of you who are, enjoy the photo below and just imagine what bf's they would make...

Lago Argentino


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