Monday, November 17, 2008

en route.

After leaving a hustled and stuffy Buenos Aires a little over a week ago, I have safely made it back to the tropics. Bem-vindo a la Bahiaaaaa! The journey north was unrushed and nicely spread out, allowing for some good doses of breathing time in between the three separate 20-25 hour bus hauls (really not so bad I swear!) I spent a day in awe of the falls at Iguazu, peddled & bronzed my way around Rio, and a few days ago landed myself back in the mellow beach town of Itacare...

I had heard mixed reviews on Iguazu Falls, so I was eager to encounter her waters first hand. And I must say, they were crazy beautiful.

In Rio, I stayed with Gabriela (fellow couchsurfer) at her apartment in the neighborhood of Botafogo. Spent a relaxed four days making smoothies, peddling around the city, and playing storytime with my loverly host.

Here in Itacare I am staying with couchsurfer Felipe ("Felipsters"), sleeping under a mosquito net on his dreamy little plot of land- a few of the trees to be found: banana, jackfruit, cashew, coconut, mango & avocado! Consuming loads of acai and coconut, hitching to new stretches of sand, and loving being in my swimsuit and knarled beach hair from sun up to sun down.

It really feels good to be back in Brazil. And I must say, it's nice to be back in the land of the tight, the short, and the barely there...my spandex are no longer the source of strange looks and sooo not fitting in. Hallelujah! :)

Thursday, November 6, 2008

& back to brazil she blows.

Now it doesn't make sense, of this I am aware. Heading to the far northeast of a country I have already been to when in a little over a month and a half I am to fly out of Santiago, Chile...in other words, I am not going in the right direction yet rather moving ridiculously far from it, all the while enduring days of bus and spending loads of money I am not so sure I should be spending. So why does she do it? You might ask. Hmmm...it goes something like this:

A few months back I started looking into possible opportunities for post-Buenos Aires, pre-California, came across a posting on helpx.net for a project called "Abracadabra" in Northeastern Brazil, shot them an email about my interest in coming to join them come November, but received an email back saying that unfortunately they weren't going to be on the farm until January. And so my search continued. I had remembered reading about a "neighboring farm" of Abracadabra, and it just so happened they too had a link. And so I came to learn of the non-profit called PURAVIDA. I wrote Elin, the lady in charge, fell in love with her spirit, and soon thereafter became increasingly intrigued and enthusiastic about their mission and vision. All I kept thinking was, "I want to be a part of this community!" and "I have to do this"- thoughts that are still on the forefront of my mind today. In brief...PURAVIDA is based on a cacao farm on the coast of Bahia, their primary focus being sustainable living, permaculture, and the creation of art and educational outlets for the local community. I am not entirely sure as to what exactly I will be doing, but I am ready and rearin' to jump right in to whatever projects they have going, get my hands dirty, and perhaps swing a machete or two...
(Oh, and a small world connection I must share: While Col and I were in Itacare, Bahia in March- just an hour or so from the farm, we became addicted to the cacao truffles traced with flavors like lime and chili that we found at the popular Middle Eastern joint...turns out those pieces of goodness were crafted by the loving hands of fazenda Puravida! Insane, right?)
For a more detailed look at PURAVIDA, check out their blog: http://puravidaonline.wordpress.com/about-the-ngo/ and take a peek at the photos that only lured me in farther: http://www.flickr.com/photos/22395023@N08/

And so it's happening.

Tomorrow I leave Buenos Aires and head north, breaking up the journey with a few days in both Iguazu and Rio. And then off to the cacao farm I gooooo...

Interesting how I came to South America with a plan to see the whole of the continent and I've only covered Brazil and Argentina (and not even all of them). Truth is, this landmass is far too large to take on in one full swoop, and I am certainly not comfortable with spending a few nights in each capital city just to say I've been there and done that. Traveling slowly is something I've come to appreciate and returning to places we've already been is a concept I am just now grasping. I find myself constantly falling in love with places and peoples, forced to tear myself away when the departure date comes round. I have to continually remind myself that despite all that has yet to be experienced in this world, in this life...that it's okay to go back.

I left because I couldn't stop moving. I couldn't stop searching for the perfect place. That's the thing about travelers. We always have to see what's over the next hill. But someone once wrote that to leave is to die a little. So I came back to the place I left. And immediately I found my heart beating alive...I understood it was the waves that had pulled me back...waves like this never stop rolling in a person, just beneath one's awareness. The sea has a way of slipping us back to our beginnings, soothing a rusty place inside of us, to remind us of something. Like a secret trance, a forgotten calling.

From "Light on a Moonless Night" by Laurie Gough

un quilombo.

After a few weeks of Mother Nature at her finest, I was faced with the quilombo ("madness, messiness, craziness") of city once again. And as summer hit Buenos Aires while I was away, things are now hot, feeling more cramped, and ehhh. Nice to be wearing flip flops again, but I don't know if I could survive a summer here....the lack of ocean and forest offering refuge from the scorching cement and exhaust poses a problem (or at least for me it does). Being in Patagonia, cleansing the aura :) after so much city...I was thinking more clearly, breathing more clearly, and simply being more clearly. Much needed peace and calm, no doubt. Those intimate towns with such a plethora of natural wonder carry a unique spirit. Strangers smiling as they pass you by, an "hola" or "buenas" always at hand...the dirt and grass and rivers and mountains- I could go on forever. Reminded me of how much more at peace I feel, how much more "home" I feel when surrounded by all of that. I certainly know that wherever it may be that I settle in life, accessible bodies of water, a mountain or two, and good doses of fresh air are a must...

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

smandes: days of picnic & park.

Took the four hour Siete Lagos route (above) from the hustled Bariloche to the laid back town of San Martin de los Andes. And despite the small size of "Smandes", I got lucky and connected with a couchsurfer by the name of Ruby, a super chill father of two who briefly showed me the house, gave me a key, and said, "Make yourself comfortable!" and then after that I hardly ever saw the guy. I came and went as I pleased, spending the majority of my two days lounging in grassy parks, napping, reading, and having delightful picnics in the sunshine.

Made a few friends on the path while hiking up to a Mapuche community nestled in the low mountains of Smandes.

bariloche: rocks, lakes, & familia.

After tearing myself away from El Bolson, off to Bariloche it was with me, aka the "Switzerland of Argentina". As the primary destination for Lake District goers, Bariloche is touristy, but rightfully so...the landscape is remarkable. I stayed with couchsurfer Diego and family, making my Bariloche experience seem not too terribly touristy which was nice. I cannot express how great it felt to sit down with an actual family (mama included!) to share mellow mealtimes and conversation.

I ate far too much chocolate while in Bariloche (Argentina's chocolate capital), pulling the usual go into every single chocolate shop and wait till they give you a tester scheme. Finally gave in and actually bought a few...dark chocolate w/almonds, milk chocolate + dulce de leche & almonds, chocolate w/coconut, and white chocolate with figs.

Happened upon a street of colorful walls.

Only 10 minutes walk from Diego's house, Playa Bonita (on Lago Nahuel Haupi) made for glorious afternoons of relax.

Cascada de los Duendes

Lago Gutierrez

View from the Cerro Campanario

Diego & good friend Juancho

Not only did Diego play tour guide for a day, taking me to the prime viewpoints, lakes and falls throughout the area, he also invited me along to go rock climbing with him and his buddies (he actually works as an outdoor adventure guide, leading treks all over Patagonia- I was in good hands). But, I'm not gonna lie, I was saying prayers the night before. Had never really had much of a desire to climb- I think the whole concept of being strapped in a harness, hanging off cliffs by a few ropes scared the crap out of me...but obviously I wasn't going to turn this one down.

Los nenes de la roca.

I think I found myself a new sport...I LOVED it!!!! Such a thrill.