palm trees, barefeet, & a whole lotta bus

Coller and I have recently returned from a fabulous vacay that took us from colonial streets to exotic isles...let me backtrack a bit to give you a taste of our experiences on the road...

Salvador da Bahia- Brazil's Afro-Brazilian mecca, a city I couldn't wait to greet. We spent the majority of our days roaming the historic center of Pelourinho, admiring her pastel-hued buildings, Baroque churches, and plazas- all scattered about amidst slopes of bulky cobblestone. Salvador's unique spirit palpitates throughout her streets- it's in the capoeira circles that form on the plazas, in the drums that can be heard at all hours of the day, and in the arts movement that has only splashed more color among this rhythmic city.

A few top knotch memories:
...Attempting to samba it up with the natives in the local samba spots- never have I seen a pair of feet move so quickly!
...Taking a visit to Mercado São Joaquim, a super sketchy waterfront market with rows upon rows of stalls, featuring everything from live goats and chickens to the blood-soaked innards of every animal imaginable. It was a lot to take in. With so many putrid smells wafting every which way, I felt a sigh of relief when we made it to the vegetable section. Although a bit gruesome, it was sweet to witness a market at its rawest.

...Rocking out at a killer reggae concert, set up on the steep steps of a gorgeous, dilapidated church. Much to my delight Bob Marley is an icon down here- the crowd went wild when the band played tribute to a few of Marley's melodies.



It was also in Salvador where we united with Rob and Jude- dearest friends of Col's parents from way back when. They took leave of their restaurant-running in Chile in order to meet up with us and enjoy the laid back groove of Bahia...oh what good fun we had!
After a few too-hot-for-your-own-good days in Salvador, we all agreed it was time to move on to our next destination: Morro de São Paulo. Although touristy, this charming, car-free island just a few hours off the coast of Salvador offers kickback days of beach, sun, and hours of mingling with diverse crowds from around the globe. We stayed at a tranquil and spacious plantation-esque pousada (pictured below), lounging at various beaches throughout the day, and each evening meeting up with newfound friends at the nightly festivities. I will forever treasure the conversation and laughter we shared with Rob and Jude on Morro, usually accompanied by a caiparinha or two, and the never-know-whatcha-gonna-get meals we were served. Hearing them tell of their globetrotting experiences back in the 70's, before travel became popular, was addicting- such inspiration these two are.

We also had the opportunity to venture to Boipeba for the day- a rustic island described as being what Morro was like 20 years ago. Between the thickly palmed interior and the ceaseless stretches of sand, this sparsely populated island was bordering on fantasy.



Our planned return to Fortaleza was bagged last minute when doors were opened for a trip further south to the town of Itacare, a surf, reggae, chillout haven that Col and I had hoped to visit but assumed was too far off our intended path. With spontaneous spirits we put off work a few more days and prolonged our Bahian jaunt. And boy oh boy did our hearts lead us in the right direction! We met back up with our friends from Morro (everyone we were meeting had a tendency to be on similar treks through Brazil) and joined their crew at the hostel, meshing with fellow soul seekers from England, Germany, Australia, and Israel. Let me add here that the majority of travelers we have come across are from Israel...after they have served their mandatory 2-3 years in the army, most save up their money and take off for a long period of travel, South America being a major magnet. And although I don't like to generalize, I must say that they are an extremely good-looking bunch of individuals- wow.

Our days in Itacare were heavenly. They consisted of the following medley: the tastiest egg & cheese sandwiches ever. serious beach time- the best we hit was the idyllic Prainha (above), a remote paradise (said to be one of Brazil's best) that requires a 45-minute hike through lush jungle. surf. açai bowls, granola, banana- hold the honey. read. swim. chill out back at the hostel. nap in hammock. frisbee on the beach with Jackson, the 60-something hostel owner who knows a thing or two about how to throw a disk (he taught me how to catch it behind my back- a huge success). sunsets on the beach. falafels for dinner (5 nights in a row- couldn't get enough). chill out at the hostel. ice cream runs- mint chip por favor. chill out some more. few beers at itacare's only bar-nightly hangout. cheers to new friends. As each day closed, I delighted in the fact that I got to do it all over again the following day...

It wasn't easy parting from this lifestyle and our tightly knit crew. Saying goodbye to peoples and places that you aren't 100% sure you will ever see again...this pains me! I will keep my fingers crossed though and hopefully we will run into at least a few of them further down the road. Vamos a ver. This grand trip of ours was topped off with a weekend of bus riding (total travel time was approximately 37.5 hours)...it really wasn't all that bad though, thanks to Brazil's top notch long distance bus system. And gracias a Deus we made it back to Fortaleza safe and sound...and with only a week or so left on the radar!