farewells

The time has come for us to bid our goodbyes. How am I feeling? Ready. Yeah, ready...and a bit sad to part ways from those who have made this experience a memorable one. It's really quite bittersweet you know- leaving experiences like these...full of the up and the down, the challenging and the rewarding, the laughter and the headache. Our main focus here was work, and I think we stuck to the plan- work is what we did. Teaming with the ladies at Casa Cultural was quite the experience...comical, exhausting, inspiring. Their patience with our lack of language (although we did attain quite the fluency I must admit!) played a large role in the success of our work, as did their lighthearted spirits, laughter always in the air. These women carry heavy realities on their backs, and yet their spirits remain wholesome. Learning heaps.

Rather than overwhelm you with words, let me do so with photos. Whether we were working away at Casa Cultural with the mulheres, or kickin' back in the hood with the meninos, good times were had...

One of my favs at Casa Cultural, the adorable Dona Rita...how could you not fall in love with her? She sits in her corner working away, day in and day out, barely peeping a word...oh I could just pick her up and give her a squeeze!!!
















Fatima and Dulce...

Mandalas were what we concentrated on...incorporating them in pillows, bikinis, and tops...

The pillows were my favorite items that we designed while here- here are a few of em'...

Babashuba...such a stud of a guy. At 79 years of age, he is as sociable as sociable gets, always out in the community hammering away. Such a workhorse that Babashoob.

The ultimate dreamboat of a child...

Oh Ozias!!!

The chickidee on the left, I like to call her Mariah (as in Mariah Carey)...she looks a bit like her, right? And the menina on the right is Josie...

I have failed to post a photo of Annie until now...here she is (left) with a Terra Prom favorite, Jeo.

Wagneide, our saving grace. From Portuguese lessons to talking about dreams, life, and boys...good times were certainly had.

Living with Dona Rita ("Rita-bean") and Senhor Jaimie...ay meu Deus...full of comedy, slumps, and having to be okay with never knowing what we were confronting day in and day out. Overall though, our homestay was wonderful- wouldn't change a thing.

A few things I will be missing from the casa...

1. Waking up to Jaimie's whistling each and every morning as he sets the table for breakfast.

2. Hanging out with Jarysson (their son who lives next door).

3. Jaimie's daily outfit: light blue shorts, with his lil' potbelly exposed- a shirt being a rarity for our Senhor. God bless him. 4. Jaimie's tinkering. He's always putzing around the house, fixin' something or other...always with a magnifying glass or a polishing kit at hand.

5. Dona Rita's homemade yogurt (I crave it at all hours).

Jose Luis, Ana and I...two fabulous feet-rubbers I might add.

Col and I became quite fond of our daily stretches at Annie's empty house in Terra Prom.

This allowed for much needed doses of peace and quiet- not sure what I would have done without this time. With the iPod bumpin', I made the patio my workout knitch...every time I sat up on a sit-up, this is what my eyes met...

Obrigada Terra Prometida

As for the agenda ahead, Rio de Janeiro it will be.

palm trees, barefeet, & a whole lotta bus

Coller and I have recently returned from a fabulous vacay that took us from colonial streets to exotic isles...let me backtrack a bit to give you a taste of our experiences on the road...

Salvador da Bahia- Brazil's Afro-Brazilian mecca, a city I couldn't wait to greet. We spent the majority of our days roaming the historic center of Pelourinho, admiring her pastel-hued buildings, Baroque churches, and plazas- all scattered about amidst slopes of bulky cobblestone. Salvador's unique spirit palpitates throughout her streets- it's in the capoeira circles that form on the plazas, in the drums that can be heard at all hours of the day, and in the arts movement that has only splashed more color among this rhythmic city.

A few top knotch memories:
...Attempting to samba it up with the natives in the local samba spots- never have I seen a pair of feet move so quickly!
...Taking a visit to Mercado São Joaquim, a super sketchy waterfront market with rows upon rows of stalls, featuring everything from live goats and chickens to the blood-soaked innards of every animal imaginable. It was a lot to take in. With so many putrid smells wafting every which way, I felt a sigh of relief when we made it to the vegetable section. Although a bit gruesome, it was sweet to witness a market at its rawest.

...Rocking out at a killer reggae concert, set up on the steep steps of a gorgeous, dilapidated church. Much to my delight Bob Marley is an icon down here- the crowd went wild when the band played tribute to a few of Marley's melodies.



It was also in Salvador where we united with Rob and Jude- dearest friends of Col's parents from way back when. They took leave of their restaurant-running in Chile in order to meet up with us and enjoy the laid back groove of Bahia...oh what good fun we had!
After a few too-hot-for-your-own-good days in Salvador, we all agreed it was time to move on to our next destination: Morro de São Paulo. Although touristy, this charming, car-free island just a few hours off the coast of Salvador offers kickback days of beach, sun, and hours of mingling with diverse crowds from around the globe. We stayed at a tranquil and spacious plantation-esque pousada (pictured below), lounging at various beaches throughout the day, and each evening meeting up with newfound friends at the nightly festivities. I will forever treasure the conversation and laughter we shared with Rob and Jude on Morro, usually accompanied by a caiparinha or two, and the never-know-whatcha-gonna-get meals we were served. Hearing them tell of their globetrotting experiences back in the 70's, before travel became popular, was addicting- such inspiration these two are.

We also had the opportunity to venture to Boipeba for the day- a rustic island described as being what Morro was like 20 years ago. Between the thickly palmed interior and the ceaseless stretches of sand, this sparsely populated island was bordering on fantasy.



Our planned return to Fortaleza was bagged last minute when doors were opened for a trip further south to the town of Itacare, a surf, reggae, chillout haven that Col and I had hoped to visit but assumed was too far off our intended path. With spontaneous spirits we put off work a few more days and prolonged our Bahian jaunt. And boy oh boy did our hearts lead us in the right direction! We met back up with our friends from Morro (everyone we were meeting had a tendency to be on similar treks through Brazil) and joined their crew at the hostel, meshing with fellow soul seekers from England, Germany, Australia, and Israel. Let me add here that the majority of travelers we have come across are from Israel...after they have served their mandatory 2-3 years in the army, most save up their money and take off for a long period of travel, South America being a major magnet. And although I don't like to generalize, I must say that they are an extremely good-looking bunch of individuals- wow.

Our days in Itacare were heavenly. They consisted of the following medley: the tastiest egg & cheese sandwiches ever. serious beach time- the best we hit was the idyllic Prainha (above), a remote paradise (said to be one of Brazil's best) that requires a 45-minute hike through lush jungle. surf. açai bowls, granola, banana- hold the honey. read. swim. chill out back at the hostel. nap in hammock. frisbee on the beach with Jackson, the 60-something hostel owner who knows a thing or two about how to throw a disk (he taught me how to catch it behind my back- a huge success). sunsets on the beach. falafels for dinner (5 nights in a row- couldn't get enough). chill out at the hostel. ice cream runs- mint chip por favor. chill out some more. few beers at itacare's only bar-nightly hangout. cheers to new friends. As each day closed, I delighted in the fact that I got to do it all over again the following day...

It wasn't easy parting from this lifestyle and our tightly knit crew. Saying goodbye to peoples and places that you aren't 100% sure you will ever see again...this pains me! I will keep my fingers crossed though and hopefully we will run into at least a few of them further down the road. Vamos a ver. This grand trip of ours was topped off with a weekend of bus riding (total travel time was approximately 37.5 hours)...it really wasn't all that bad though, thanks to Brazil's top notch long distance bus system. And gracias a Deus we made it back to Fortaleza safe and sound...and with only a week or so left on the radar!

new families

Only five minutes walk from Terra Prom lies an oasis called 4-Varas. A well-being center of sorts- a community project based on the nurturing of ones mind, body and spirit. Palm trees, thatched rooves, gardens, hammocks, and sea shells- a green piece of heaven let me tell ya. A perfect setting for this natural healing focus which includes group therapy and massage!!! Hallelujah. When Annie first mentioned 4 Varas I immediately knew that I would have to try and get some type of massage exchange going. And that's basically how the story goes.

For the past few weeks I've been graciously taken in by the 4 Varas nest, beijos and abraços always at hand. I've had the opportunity to trade with various massage therapists as well as teach them a bit about Swedish massage. Yeah, you heard me- teach. Really informal though. Often times I'll show up to give a massage and a group of students (who are finishing up their clinical hours) are hoping to learn about this so-called Swedish massage I bring from the States. It's been incredible- getting to pass along a little knowledge, and all while stumbling along in the half-Spanish, half-Portuguese dialect of mine, doing my best to maintain some level of flow and rhythm. I wish I had these impromptu sessions on video- funny stuff.
This experience has been unique, that's for sure. Learning about a different culture's approach to massage, and in such a hands on way, is something I've always wanted to do. And in such a tranquil scene? Stepping from the noise and dust ridden favela, into this place that breeds nothing but peacefulness...I am not sure I will ever entirely grasp it.

Annie took off for the States last week and alas we have moved in with Dona Rita and family. A few memorable experiences that might make you smile...
...Col and I went to have our nails done with Dona Rita last weekend. It wasnt't until about an hour after we arrived that Dona Rita sat down for the full on mani-pedi...designs on each nail to boot. A few more ladies showed up and the chatty kathy in each and every one of them was unleashed. Col and I on the other hand, we sat and we smiled, threw in a sentence here, a sentence there. Hot, tired, bordering on boredom- that we were. And then the giggles set in...when Col got in the hot seat and the gal who was doing her nails wouldn't let Col settle for her clear nail polish request. An unsure look spread across her poor face and let's just say that Col's keeping it simple on the nailbeds was shot to hell. I'm talkin' two flowers on each nail with glitter layered thick. It was hard keeping the laughter down let me tell you. And my mani-pedi experience? A bit painful- they really get down to the nitty gritty, pulling up every last piece of skin that appears to be ded...I did my best to be discreet about the minor jolts of pain that struck here and there. I must make note of when she drew blood and of this horrific powder that she applied on the cuts- oh how it stung! Other than that, she did well- huge props to her for even touching my feet my goodness. Not good. My right foot looks like its been through WWI, and worse, when she took off the nailpolish on my big toes, she uncovered an unhealthy set of nails. Slightly yellow toned with a strange texture- sure signs of pure neglection. Damned be my fathers genes! You should have seen the gal doing my poor feet- straight worried about my situation...and in true Brazilian fashion, she wasn't about to keep quiet regarding the nastiness that sat in her lap. All I could do was smile and say, "I know, they've got problems." Thanks to her efforts, they turned out beautious I must admit...and the polish (no designs thank God) masked the big guys- Gracias a Deus.

...Meet my host-father, Jaimie. He's got this funny quirk about our eating habits. Before we even moved in he openly expressed his desire to get we American girls nice and plump..."They won't even recognize you when you go back!" He always told us. And now that we are living with him, he's on this new kick, convinced that we simply don't eat and don't like any of the food he prepares (which really isn't always true- I must admit though, the omelette made with heaps of margerine and canned sardines wasn't easy going down!)...As Col and I eat he keeps a steady eye over our plates (with a smile slapped across his face- always)...often times he'll look up at us and start chuckling (have I mentioned this chuckle of his is addicting?) with a finger swag thrown in here and there. We try to convince him of our satisfaction with his cooking skills, but I doubt he will ever be convinced...

...Meet Jose Luis, one of Dona Rita and Jaimie's grandchildren...this kid doesn't lack in the affection department- always kissin' and lovin' up on Col and I...

...Last weekend we went to Cumbuco for some much needed beach action. Pictured below is Jarysson (son of Dona R and Jaimie) and his daughter Ana Clara.

...they call us "tia"

...a few friends of mine here in terra prom. please take special note of the one below (teal background)- his name is ozias and i plan on smuggling him back into the states. since day one, he's been a favorite...a dream child. a few things that put this kid at the top: 1. he gives us dirt on the local up and up 2. he opens and closes doors for us 3. he speaks nice and slow 4. he thinks we are beautiful even though we feel the farthest thing from it, and most importantly- 5. he keeps a steady eye out for a sista...i dunno what we'd do without him!