cheers to new friends

A view of Abraao and her boat studded cove, the only town of any size on Ilha Grande.

After Rio we headed for the island of Ilha Grande, only a short scoot away from the city but a world away in terms of what it has to offer its visitors. With zero cars on the premises, this place is a peaceful oasis of green with an endless amount of trails and beaches...unfortunately, the sunshine only decided to come out our first two days, and then thereafter we got nothing but clouds and rain. Being the sun-worshiper that I am, it wasn't easy being on an exotic island with muddled skies, no it wasn't...but we did meet an humorous bunch from England who made our dewed experience on the island quite the experience.

Col, Chris, me, Susie, and Neil.

They were all a bit older than Col and I and had already clocked in years of backpacking it around the world on a budget, and now- they were simply enjoying holiday. We penny-pinching Americanas were taken in by these 30-something, English holiday-makers... and the good times just kept comin'.


Enjoying the reggae tunes with a few of the Englanders at the only nightspot on the island... Sarah, Susie, Sebi, me, and Col.

The day after we met them we boarded their private speedboat that they rented for the day and we had the otherwise impossible opportunity to explore the ceaseless skirts of this seemingly uninhabited island (only pockets of tiny communities, other than that, only dense swaths of jungle...it was precious!) The laid back vibes of Ilha Grande were a hit, and although the sun failed on us, the company was priceless and the laughter was constant.


Sarah, Neil, Susie, and Sebi kickin' back on the boat.


With foliage as our only refuge, Col and I found ourselves on a deserted Lopes-Mendes, the 7th prettiest beach in the world.




Coller stoked on life with a delicious bowl of acai in hand- we never seemed to get sick of it!



Let me also add Ilha Grande to our "Most Romantic Destinations in Brazil" list...we seem to be hitting all of the dreamy honeymoon spots, so if you are in need of a worthwhile coastal getaway for you and your lover, come talk to me...

head over heels for rio

A roadside depiction of Rio's Sugarloaf Mountain in bohemian Santa Teresa.

Our travels throughout the south of Brazil have recently (and sadly) come to an end and here I sit before this neglected blog of mine, with almost too much to share with you all. I promise I'll keep it to a minimum...for my own sake as well- Col kills me because these blog entries of mine tend to occupy way too much of my time (perfectionist tendencies I suppose)- unhealthy, I know, but we're workin' on it. So, anywho, where to begin, where to begin. Let me take it back a few weeks, to the city I became obsessed with as our plane soared down among her mountainous ranges- alas, Rio de Janeiro! Col and I were both blown away by Rio. A perfect portrayal of city and nature in unison, the landscape is outrageous...you've got your high rises, your ritzy boutiques, your top-notch nightlife, but then you've also got your gorgeous beaches, your massive peaks jetting out of nowhere, and your Floresta da Tijuca, the world's largest urban forest. Oh I could go on forever at how awe-struck I was! Green, tropical, beachy vibes mingling with the buzz of a city...I had never witnessed any balance of the sort.

Standing atop Corcovado Mountain, Christ the Redeemer can be seen from almost anywhere in the city.

After two and a half months of living in Terra Prom, it was a bit of a shocker stepping back into a world of manageable weather and stylishly clad surroundings. Strange how in a matter of hours your lifestyle can change so rapidly, just like that. Rio did indeed provide some serious refreshment...especially after those days of exitless heat- it was exhausting keeping up! My energy levels were immediately restored and I'm not going to lie, I was ecstatic to be on the road- to explore the Brazil I had read so much about and to, well, put on some heels and get on a dance floor (after those few danceless months, Col and I were both aching to go out!)


Left to right: Thaiza, me, Cintia, Col, and Thiago's mama, Lucia.


Coller and I with Thiago and fam...

One thing that definitely made Rio so fabulous was the accommodation we got hooked up with. We stayed with the family of a friend of mine, Thiago, who I had met while traveling throughout Spain and who I had briefly kept in touch with over the years. Thiago and his family were incredible hosts, making Col and I feel right at home, taking we vagabond in with nothin' but love and showing to us their lovely Rio. One major highlight was our night out at a local samba bar with Thaiza (Thiago's twenty-three year old sister) and her best friend Cintia. My oh my, what a killer pair...nothing but chit-chat, laughter, and rockin' samba moves (they attempted to teach Col and I, and we really were trying to bust out with both the feet and the hips, but I'm afraid we weren't doing it justice.)


Thaiza and Cintia, pre-samba...

The energy that the crowd put out was something else...so much happiness, everyone so utterly in the moment. It's inspiring to be surrounded by people like this, to be enveloped in a culture where warmth and high-spiritedness permeates so much of each and every day. I have found the aura of this country addicting, no doubt. And Rio specifically...I am head over heels for this place, I truly am. Let's just say that in a few years time I might just have to relocate here and take on the title of carioca (a person from Rio)...oh la la that sounds nice.

A panoramic shot of Rio and her peaks, islands, and city below...

farewells

The time has come for us to bid our goodbyes. How am I feeling? Ready. Yeah, ready...and a bit sad to part ways from those who have made this experience a memorable one. It's really quite bittersweet you know- leaving experiences like these...full of the up and the down, the challenging and the rewarding, the laughter and the headache. Our main focus here was work, and I think we stuck to the plan- work is what we did. Teaming with the ladies at Casa Cultural was quite the experience...comical, exhausting, inspiring. Their patience with our lack of language (although we did attain quite the fluency I must admit!) played a large role in the success of our work, as did their lighthearted spirits, laughter always in the air. These women carry heavy realities on their backs, and yet their spirits remain wholesome. Learning heaps.

Rather than overwhelm you with words, let me do so with photos. Whether we were working away at Casa Cultural with the mulheres, or kickin' back in the hood with the meninos, good times were had...

One of my favs at Casa Cultural, the adorable Dona Rita...how could you not fall in love with her? She sits in her corner working away, day in and day out, barely peeping a word...oh I could just pick her up and give her a squeeze!!!
















Fatima and Dulce...

Mandalas were what we concentrated on...incorporating them in pillows, bikinis, and tops...

The pillows were my favorite items that we designed while here- here are a few of em'...

Babashuba...such a stud of a guy. At 79 years of age, he is as sociable as sociable gets, always out in the community hammering away. Such a workhorse that Babashoob.

The ultimate dreamboat of a child...

Oh Ozias!!!

The chickidee on the left, I like to call her Mariah (as in Mariah Carey)...she looks a bit like her, right? And the menina on the right is Josie...

I have failed to post a photo of Annie until now...here she is (left) with a Terra Prom favorite, Jeo.

Wagneide, our saving grace. From Portuguese lessons to talking about dreams, life, and boys...good times were certainly had.

Living with Dona Rita ("Rita-bean") and Senhor Jaimie...ay meu Deus...full of comedy, slumps, and having to be okay with never knowing what we were confronting day in and day out. Overall though, our homestay was wonderful- wouldn't change a thing.

A few things I will be missing from the casa...

1. Waking up to Jaimie's whistling each and every morning as he sets the table for breakfast.

2. Hanging out with Jarysson (their son who lives next door).

3. Jaimie's daily outfit: light blue shorts, with his lil' potbelly exposed- a shirt being a rarity for our Senhor. God bless him. 4. Jaimie's tinkering. He's always putzing around the house, fixin' something or other...always with a magnifying glass or a polishing kit at hand.

5. Dona Rita's homemade yogurt (I crave it at all hours).

Jose Luis, Ana and I...two fabulous feet-rubbers I might add.

Col and I became quite fond of our daily stretches at Annie's empty house in Terra Prom.

This allowed for much needed doses of peace and quiet- not sure what I would have done without this time. With the iPod bumpin', I made the patio my workout knitch...every time I sat up on a sit-up, this is what my eyes met...

Obrigada Terra Prometida

As for the agenda ahead, Rio de Janeiro it will be.

palm trees, barefeet, & a whole lotta bus

Coller and I have recently returned from a fabulous vacay that took us from colonial streets to exotic isles...let me backtrack a bit to give you a taste of our experiences on the road...

Salvador da Bahia- Brazil's Afro-Brazilian mecca, a city I couldn't wait to greet. We spent the majority of our days roaming the historic center of Pelourinho, admiring her pastel-hued buildings, Baroque churches, and plazas- all scattered about amidst slopes of bulky cobblestone. Salvador's unique spirit palpitates throughout her streets- it's in the capoeira circles that form on the plazas, in the drums that can be heard at all hours of the day, and in the arts movement that has only splashed more color among this rhythmic city.

A few top knotch memories:
...Attempting to samba it up with the natives in the local samba spots- never have I seen a pair of feet move so quickly!
...Taking a visit to Mercado São Joaquim, a super sketchy waterfront market with rows upon rows of stalls, featuring everything from live goats and chickens to the blood-soaked innards of every animal imaginable. It was a lot to take in. With so many putrid smells wafting every which way, I felt a sigh of relief when we made it to the vegetable section. Although a bit gruesome, it was sweet to witness a market at its rawest.

...Rocking out at a killer reggae concert, set up on the steep steps of a gorgeous, dilapidated church. Much to my delight Bob Marley is an icon down here- the crowd went wild when the band played tribute to a few of Marley's melodies.



It was also in Salvador where we united with Rob and Jude- dearest friends of Col's parents from way back when. They took leave of their restaurant-running in Chile in order to meet up with us and enjoy the laid back groove of Bahia...oh what good fun we had!
After a few too-hot-for-your-own-good days in Salvador, we all agreed it was time to move on to our next destination: Morro de São Paulo. Although touristy, this charming, car-free island just a few hours off the coast of Salvador offers kickback days of beach, sun, and hours of mingling with diverse crowds from around the globe. We stayed at a tranquil and spacious plantation-esque pousada (pictured below), lounging at various beaches throughout the day, and each evening meeting up with newfound friends at the nightly festivities. I will forever treasure the conversation and laughter we shared with Rob and Jude on Morro, usually accompanied by a caiparinha or two, and the never-know-whatcha-gonna-get meals we were served. Hearing them tell of their globetrotting experiences back in the 70's, before travel became popular, was addicting- such inspiration these two are.

We also had the opportunity to venture to Boipeba for the day- a rustic island described as being what Morro was like 20 years ago. Between the thickly palmed interior and the ceaseless stretches of sand, this sparsely populated island was bordering on fantasy.



Our planned return to Fortaleza was bagged last minute when doors were opened for a trip further south to the town of Itacare, a surf, reggae, chillout haven that Col and I had hoped to visit but assumed was too far off our intended path. With spontaneous spirits we put off work a few more days and prolonged our Bahian jaunt. And boy oh boy did our hearts lead us in the right direction! We met back up with our friends from Morro (everyone we were meeting had a tendency to be on similar treks through Brazil) and joined their crew at the hostel, meshing with fellow soul seekers from England, Germany, Australia, and Israel. Let me add here that the majority of travelers we have come across are from Israel...after they have served their mandatory 2-3 years in the army, most save up their money and take off for a long period of travel, South America being a major magnet. And although I don't like to generalize, I must say that they are an extremely good-looking bunch of individuals- wow.

Our days in Itacare were heavenly. They consisted of the following medley: the tastiest egg & cheese sandwiches ever. serious beach time- the best we hit was the idyllic Prainha (above), a remote paradise (said to be one of Brazil's best) that requires a 45-minute hike through lush jungle. surf. açai bowls, granola, banana- hold the honey. read. swim. chill out back at the hostel. nap in hammock. frisbee on the beach with Jackson, the 60-something hostel owner who knows a thing or two about how to throw a disk (he taught me how to catch it behind my back- a huge success). sunsets on the beach. falafels for dinner (5 nights in a row- couldn't get enough). chill out at the hostel. ice cream runs- mint chip por favor. chill out some more. few beers at itacare's only bar-nightly hangout. cheers to new friends. As each day closed, I delighted in the fact that I got to do it all over again the following day...

It wasn't easy parting from this lifestyle and our tightly knit crew. Saying goodbye to peoples and places that you aren't 100% sure you will ever see again...this pains me! I will keep my fingers crossed though and hopefully we will run into at least a few of them further down the road. Vamos a ver. This grand trip of ours was topped off with a weekend of bus riding (total travel time was approximately 37.5 hours)...it really wasn't all that bad though, thanks to Brazil's top notch long distance bus system. And gracias a Deus we made it back to Fortaleza safe and sound...and with only a week or so left on the radar!