let the beauty you love, be what you do.

chocolate trees

2009-01-13T08:45:00.000-08:00

I suppose I should put an end to this neglect-the-blog spree I seem to be on- it's been two months already. And in case you are were unaware, I am indeed back in California, facing a beauteous yet chicken-skinned winter, spending loads of time with the padres and friends and Redwood trees and rocky coastline. But I am getting ahead of myself, for last I wrote of was my arrival in Bahia, northeastern Brazil, embarking on an experience that was to involve smelly earth and jungly energy. I was en route to Fazenda Pura Vida.............

19 novembro 2008

and alas, here I am. sprawled out on the deck of my own little nook, looking out over river, waterfall and jungle...this land is blessed. i arrived yesterday afternoon, with brief directions from alex's email scribbled on scrap- 'bus: itacare-ubaitaba (or local bus to taboquinha). 20 mins after taboquinha, just after agua fria. ask for fazenda peri. the kids on road can deliver you across river.' simple enough. i jumped on the local, "more native" bus as felipsters advised. twelve men. three women. country folks, hardworking, weathered faces, gentle glances and honest smiles. the homem behind me was a problem though. he wreaked of booze and fancied the gringa on the bus, shouting sweet nothings down my ear and patting my head every so often. lovely. everything else went fine though, accompanied to the river crossing from agua fria by three teenage boys and transported across the rio de contas in dugout canoe by the almighty vera. i was welcomed beautifully by alex and bruno and vera and more...sat down for cacao (or "cocoa") fruit tasting (had never seen the bright yellow fruit before,) tea time, and story sharing................

The stories we shared were many that month I spent on the farm. The lives of both Alex and Bruno, what brought them each individually to this plot of land and all that came before- the juiciness novels are made of. Bruno, Pura Vida co-creator (with Elin, Swedish lady back in England who essentially brought me here via her spirited emails and who I was unfortunately unable to meet,) French Caribbean stallion, worked as a skipper most of his life sailing the world over and over again. He was brought to Brazil years back by some natural fondness, an obsession you might call it, for all things Brazil. And so it was that a few years back Pura Vida was born. And Alexandra- a South African beauty who has always fancied the life of pirates. A free spirit, artistically talented and good with words. She was led to the farm a year ago by some mysterious need to be there, not sure as to how long she would stay or to where she would go from there. Four months later she and Bruno left that farm as lovers.

There are three families that live on the farm year round, and Bruno (plus those who find themselves drawn for one reason or another to that neck of the jungle) is there six months out of the year- November-April ish. So I, arriving on the farm as he and Alex did, was an early bird as most visitors/helpers come round late December and on. So it was just Bruno, Alex and I on the farm, plus those incredible families just short scoots away. My first time in Brazil, while living and working in the favela ("slum"), movement was constant, so many children, neverending street drama, dust and noise, unbearable heat, a body of water we weren't allowed to enter...And there at the farm, an entirely different Brazil was living out its existence. A peaceful one where horses run the trail below, the same familiar faces of the farmers passing by each day on their way to work the cacao, the river below ceaselessly calling to cool us off. Living so closely with the land, according to the seasons. No electricity- candle-lit mealtimes, journaltimes, conversationtimes..............
...there is nothing quite like living in tune with nature, in touch with the light of day, with the seasons. there was talk of bringing electricity to this side of the river- "...but that would only take away from...(pause)....this..." bruno said looking around the candlelit table, the forces of black jungle in full throttle, unaffected by we humans. it seems as if lights and such would intrude on the peaceful groove of pura vida, on the lull of this natural setting. as the sun wakes up each day, so do we, and as the skies fade into darkness, so do our energy levels. by 7:30pm i am one big yawn....

....just finished a delightful lunch of curried lentils, mango and plantain- accompanied by lemongrass + ginger tea. all of this set before bruno, alex and i, perched on the veranda- prayer flags, hammock, pregnant dog janeshka, drying swimsuits, endless green, the only sounds to be heard being the chirp-chirp of bird and the gush-gush of waterfall. (sigh.) this place, these people, this life...toe-tingling beautiful, heart-filling bountiful, never take me from this place remarkable.

21 Novembro 2008

yesterday was a day of drizzle. hooray for watery skies! it has been a whopping three months since it rained last- these poor soils, plants and trees are parchy parched. the rain called for lazy day. i wrote. read. played school with the kiddies. drew. played house with the girls. ate loads of bananas. drank scrumptious teas. swam. read by candlelight. dined on a lentil-veggie concoction involving curry, coconut milk and peanuts. drank maracuja (passionfruit) + ginger juice w/ a splash of a french orange liquour. and listened to stories of past pura vida visitors. delightful day of lazy.

Focusing on the slow and the good. A concept that I was able to experience fully while at the farm, a concept that I packed in my luggage and hauled on home to the States, a concept I hope to live out for the rest of my life. From lighting the rocket stove for meal prep to washing clothes in the river, things were taken back a few steps, down a few knotches, and away from the hustled wam-bam pace so many live by. All of this giving way to living mindfully, more aware of what it is that you are doing and how it is that you are doing it. Existing in the now------striving for it always.

smile, breathe, + go slowly. ~thich nhat hanh

So what exactly did I do on the farm? Well...each day took on its own form, completely void of pressures and deadlines. There were those days when I woke up and thought, all I want to do today is read. And so I read, of treehouses and healing plants and chocolate making. There were other days when I thought, I want to hang out with the kids and perhaps paint that way-too-white wall. And so I danced and schooled with the youngsters and spent the rest of my day painting a series of plants on the outside of my dwelling. And then there were days when I wanted to dig my hands in dirt, scatter seeds, and collect plants from the river below. And so I dug, scattered, and collected. As I previously mentioned, I was an early bird and arrived at the farm as Bruno did, so there was much restoring and tidying to be done, getting the farm back up and running. The big projects I had read about pre-arrival usually come a bit down the road when the children are on summer break and when there are a handful of folks on the farm to head up creative workshops surrounding education, arts, and sustainibility. No doubt in my mind that I will return one day to see all of this....... :)

13 dezembro 2008

again, 4:45 am. up and feeling good. i seriously got in bed at 6:45 pm, read a wincy bit, and was out cold. i am really enjoying this "schedule"- not sure how i'm gonna deal back in buenos aires those few days- ehhh- not gonna think about it...a city with a pace that is so opposite to that of here- farm, jungle, rural bahia. and it's going to be gruesomely hot and cementy. ay meu deus. dreading it already. with only two more days at the farm, these thoughts of 'what's next' are coming up more frequently. i suppose it's best though, to prepare my mind, emotions, etc. for the big cambio de rutina ("change in routine")...i also must remind myself that although i will be parting from this place physically, i will be taking with me a beauteous bundle of new practices and ideas. the spirit of pura vida shall continue residing in me no doubt, and certainly i will do my best to hold tight to this calm, this halcyon i have been bathing in here. this past month- and especially this past week, i have been experiencing such a light, airy, sweep-you-off-your-feet happiness. filled. leveled. tuned. balanced........i feel great. my contentment is thick. my gratitude sheer. i have never felt less burdened by myself or by the world.

14 dezembro 2008

ay meu deus. i can hardly believe that a month has passed us by- tomorrow i cross the mighty contas and bus it to the coast- hoping to then catch a bus to rio de janeiro. and so the journey will begin....so thankful for my time here on the farm. it's really been a sort of retreat, tranquility at its finest. surely when there are more people the vibe takes on a different dimension- i am hopeful to make it back one day, perhaps experience pura vida filled with fellow wanderlusters. it was nice though, being way out here with only alex and bruno. loads of time to myself, my carefree days molding themselves according to my own personal whim. painting. reading. river-ing. writing. tea-timing. restoring. banana-ing. creating. planting. hammock-ing. breathing ....................................... this month has treated me with such loveliness. day in and day out, in awe. this setting alone- the rio contas and the surrounding mata- how can it be that her waters only become more and more stunning? and the animal kingdom that reigns? such an excitingly savage force. my fondness for this natural realm has geysered, becoming something i am not so sure i can describe................................i have made friends with the overhead swooping bats at night and am greeted each morn by that fleeting hummingbird. i've come face to face with a shimmery emerald fly, an exotic grasshopper of sorts, and a few frogs of monstrous proportion. i crossed paths with a lengthy black snake striped with yellow, observed a praying mantis lifting up his prayers, dined with glow worms and battled it out with bedtime visiting cockroaches (not so keen on those creatures, i think it might be their spastic pace- it's quite unsettling you know.) the orchestra, made up of insects, jungle and waterfall, will surely be missed...it's what opened each day and brought each day to a close...it never got old. constant companions, these miniscule yet ever complex pieces of god's creation. stunningly diverse and charged, we got along well.

If you would like to check out more pics, hit this up:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2012308&l=86353&id=1159364209

en route.

2008-11-17T10:04:00.000-08:00

After leaving a hustled and stuffy Buenos Aires a little over a week ago, I have safely made it back to the tropics. Bem-vindo a la Bahiaaaaa! The journey north was unrushed and nicely spread out, allowing for some good doses of breathing time in between the three separate 20-25 hour bus hauls (really not so bad I swear!) I spent a day in awe of the falls at Iguazu, peddled & bronzed my way around Rio, and a few days ago landed myself back in the mellow beach town of Itacare...

I had heard mixed reviews on Iguazu Falls, so I was eager to encounter her waters first hand. And I must say, they were crazy beautiful.

In Rio, I stayed with Gabriela (fellow couchsurfer) at her apartment in the neighborhood of Botafogo. Spent a relaxed four days making smoothies, peddling around the city, and playing storytime with my loverly host.

Here in Itacare I am staying with couchsurfer Felipe ("Felipsters"), sleeping under a mosquito net on his dreamy little plot of land- a few of the trees to be found: banana, jackfruit, cashew, coconut, mango & avocado! Consuming loads of acai and coconut, hitching to new stretches of sand, and loving being in my swimsuit and knarled beach hair from sun up to sun down.

It really feels good to be back in Brazil. And I must say, it's nice to be back in the land of the tight, the short, and the barely there...my spandex are no longer the source of strange looks and sooo not fitting in. Hallelujah! :)

& back to brazil she blows.

2008-11-06T19:30:00.000-08:00

Now it doesn't make sense, of this I am aware. Heading to the far northeast of a country I have already been to when in a little over a month and a half I am to fly out of Santiago, Chile...in other words, I am not going in the right direction yet rather moving ridiculously far from it, all the while enduring days of bus and spending loads of money I am not so sure I should be spending. So why does she do it? You might ask. Hmmm...it goes something like this:

A few months back I started looking into possible opportunities for post-Buenos Aires, pre-California, came across a posting on helpx.net for a project called "Abracadabra" in Northeastern Brazil, shot them an email about my interest in coming to join them come November, but received an email back saying that unfortunately they weren't going to be on the farm until January. And so my search continued. I had remembered reading about a "neighboring farm" of Abracadabra, and it just so happened they too had a link. And so I came to learn of the non-profit called PURAVIDA. I wrote Elin, the lady in charge, fell in love with her spirit, and soon thereafter became increasingly intrigued and enthusiastic about their mission and vision. All I kept thinking was, "I want to be a part of this community!" and "I have to do this"- thoughts that are still on the forefront of my mind today. In brief...PURAVIDA is based on a cacao farm on the coast of Bahia, their primary focus being sustainable living, permaculture, and the creation of art and educational outlets for the local community. I am not entirely sure as to what exactly I will be doing, but I am ready and rearin' to jump right in to whatever projects they have going, get my hands dirty, and perhaps swing a machete or two...
(Oh, and a small world connection I must share: While Col and I were in Itacare, Bahia in March- just an hour or so from the farm, we became addicted to the cacao truffles traced with flavors like lime and chili that we found at the popular Middle Eastern joint...turns out those pieces of goodness were crafted by the loving hands of fazenda Puravida! Insane, right?)
For a more detailed look at PURAVIDA, check out their blog: http://puravidaonline.wordpress.com/about-the-ngo/ and take a peek at the photos that only lured me in farther: http://www.flickr.com/photos/22395023@N08/

And so it's happening.

Tomorrow I leave Buenos Aires and head north, breaking up the journey with a few days in both Iguazu and Rio. And then off to the cacao farm I gooooo...

Interesting how I came to South America with a plan to see the whole of the continent and I've only covered Brazil and Argentina (and not even all of them). Truth is, this landmass is far too large to take on in one full swoop, and I am certainly not comfortable with spending a few nights in each capital city just to say I've been there and done that. Traveling slowly is something I've come to appreciate and returning to places we've already been is a concept I am just now grasping. I find myself constantly falling in love with places and peoples, forced to tear myself away when the departure date comes round. I have to continually remind myself that despite all that has yet to be experienced in this world, in this life...that it's okay to go back.

I left because I couldn't stop moving. I couldn't stop searching for the perfect place. That's the thing about travelers. We always have to see what's over the next hill. But someone once wrote that to leave is to die a little. So I came back to the place I left. And immediately I found my heart beating alive...I understood it was the waves that had pulled me back...waves like this never stop rolling in a person, just beneath one's awareness. The sea has a way of slipping us back to our beginnings, soothing a rusty place inside of us, to remind us of something. Like a secret trance, a forgotten calling.

From "Light on a Moonless Night" by Laurie Gough

un quilombo.

2008-11-06T15:24:00.000-08:00

After a few weeks of Mother Nature at her finest, I was faced with the quilombo ("madness, messiness, craziness") of city once again. And as summer hit Buenos Aires while I was away, things are now hot, feeling more cramped, and ehhh. Nice to be wearing flip flops again, but I don't know if I could survive a summer here....the lack of ocean and forest offering refuge from the scorching cement and exhaust poses a problem (or at least for me it does). Being in Patagonia, cleansing the aura :) after so much city...I was thinking more clearly, breathing more clearly, and simply being more clearly. Much needed peace and calm, no doubt. Those intimate towns with such a plethora of natural wonder carry a unique spirit. Strangers smiling as they pass you by, an "hola" or "buenas" always at hand...the dirt and grass and rivers and mountains- I could go on forever. Reminded me of how much more at peace I feel, how much more "home" I feel when surrounded by all of that. I certainly know that wherever it may be that I settle in life, accessible bodies of water, a mountain or two, and good doses of fresh air are a must...

smandes: days of picnic & park.

2008-11-05T10:59:00.000-08:00

Took the four hour Siete Lagos route (above) from the hustled Bariloche to the laid back town of San Martin de los Andes. And despite the small size of "Smandes", I got lucky and connected with a couchsurfer by the name of Ruby, a super chill father of two who briefly showed me the house, gave me a key, and said, "Make yourself comfortable!" and then after that I hardly ever saw the guy. I came and went as I pleased, spending the majority of my two days lounging in grassy parks, napping, reading, and having delightful picnics in the sunshine.

Made a few friends on the path while hiking up to a Mapuche community nestled in the low mountains of Smandes.

bariloche: rocks, lakes, & familia.

2008-11-05T09:54:00.000-08:00

After tearing myself away from El Bolson, off to Bariloche it was with me, aka the "Switzerland of Argentina". As the primary destination for Lake District goers, Bariloche is touristy, but rightfully so...the landscape is remarkable. I stayed with couchsurfer Diego and family, making my Bariloche experience seem not too terribly touristy which was nice. I cannot express how great it felt to sit down with an actual family (mama included!) to share mellow mealtimes and conversation.

I ate far too much chocolate while in Bariloche (Argentina's chocolate capital), pulling the usual go into every single chocolate shop and wait till they give you a tester scheme. Finally gave in and actually bought a few...dark chocolate w/almonds, milk chocolate + dulce de leche & almonds, chocolate w/coconut, and white chocolate with figs.

Happened upon a street of colorful walls.

Only 10 minutes walk from Diego's house, Playa Bonita (on Lago Nahuel Haupi) made for glorious afternoons of relax.

Cascada de los Duendes

Lago Gutierrez

View from the Cerro Campanario

Diego & good friend Juancho

Not only did Diego play tour guide for a day, taking me to the prime viewpoints, lakes and falls throughout the area, he also invited me along to go rock climbing with him and his buddies (he actually works as an outdoor adventure guide, leading treks all over Patagonia- I was in good hands). But, I'm not gonna lie, I was saying prayers the night before. Had never really had much of a desire to climb- I think the whole concept of being strapped in a harness, hanging off cliffs by a few ropes scared the crap out of me...but obviously I wasn't going to turn this one down.

Los nenes de la roca.

I think I found myself a new sport...I LOVED it!!!! Such a thrill.

el bolson: small town harmony.

2008-11-04T10:44:00.000-08:00

Before I start in on how I fell in love with El Bolson, I must take note of the aventura had on La Ruta 40, "South America's Worst Road". I was planning on heading back to Calafate in order to catch the once a week bus that goes north (on an alternate route as most buses don't dare the 40) but was invited by fellow Chalten hostelers, Nick and Kelly from San Fran, to mob north with them...and clearly, I couldn't pass it up. I had read many stories surrounding this hellish stretch in the middle of NOWHERE, how one should take much caution, be prepared, etc. I knew right away that Nick and Kelly were uninformed as we hit the road that morning and Nick states confidently, "Yeah, I bet we'll make it in 12 hours." And I'm thinking, "There is no way broheem..." Sure enough, about an hour into the trip we hit the dirt, rock, and boulder that would be our home for the next day and a half.

And of course we hit these interminable passes of isolation on the windiest day in history. So aside from hours upon hours of dodging tire-popping boulders (Nick did a fabulous job- I would have been a wreck) and the ceaseless cling-tang-ping! of rocks charging the car, the gusts of wind (clearly carrying large quantities of dirt) added another enjoyable element to the mix.

Nick, Molly and the Rocket. This photo was taken after our only brake down (miraculous given the dinker size of their rental), were graciously picked up by a passerby (it's an unwritten rule on the 40 that you stop for whomever is on the side of the road), taken to the 9 familied town of Bajo Caracoles, spent a few hours in a gas station while we waited for the town's mechanic to fix our dear Rocket (who just happened to have the EXACT same car and whipped out a spare fuel filter lickity split!) Love when things like that happen.

We stopped off to see if this biker woman was alright as her saddled down bici was turned on its side. Probably late 50's, with a weathered face and one bright personality, she told us that with such wind, she could barely walk herself let alone her and the bike- she would have to wait it out. Turns out she had been riding since San Francisco!!!??? All the way down through Mexico, Central America and South America- the only ride she had to hitch was getting from Panama to Colombia as it is basically impossible to cross on land. And all she asked of us? A light for her cigarette and confirmation on the election date- she still needed to send in her absentee ballot.

After bidding my farewells to Nick and Kelly after that memorable ride, I was immediately swept off my feet by that pueblito in the valley called El Bolson (in English "the pocket"). I had heard many good things about this town- the homemade beer, the hippy fair, the low key vibes. But I think what attracted me most to El Bolson was the 60-something year old Agustin Porro and his plot of land down by the river with two cabins on it for travelers seeking a not so conventional hostel experience. I read about this Casa del Viajero that Agustin and his wife ran on someones travel blog, was instantly intrigued, and gave Mr. Porro a call from Buenos Aires thinking, "Is this real?" Sure enough, I spoke to the main man himself and he concluded the convo saying that when I arrived in Bolson, to give him a ring and he'd himself come and pick me up. So that's exactly what I did.
The serene space, light, and green were exactly what I needed. Gardens, lazy cats, ponds, clothes drying on the line, a canopy of trees, chickens scurrying about- all of this backed by a sloping forest, a river and gravel road out front, and snow clad mountains off in the distance. I felt so wonderfully far from the city.

Ben from France (who has been living there for quite some time now) plus the beautifully spirited Agustin.

Ben (and those incredible mustard-colored, saggy crotched/bummed pants that he wore every day) performing for me post chicken coop renovation. "At first," he told me (in his heavily French accented Spanish), "The chickens hated me- made such a fuss, but I have found my place among them and gained tranquility and calm. And now?" He posed. "I am a chicken too!" (You really had to be there.) He proceeded to ask if I had reflexes and thought it funny to pretend to chuck those boulders in his hands at my face. What a doll.

Another shot of Ben (as you can tell I was highly amused by this dread locked frances)...he spent hours "finding equilibrium" on his tightrope right outside the kitchen window.
Hiking to Cajon de Azul

A majestic entrance to one of the many mountain refugios I came across.

Reminded me of home in Northern California...

El Bosque Tallado. A tree-carved museum of sorts, set way up in the forest overlooking the valley.

Downtown El Bolson

Meet Claudio. The man makes a mean empanada.

How Arcata, California is this?! That afternoon transported me to lala land. Newly formed friendships sprawled on the grass at Saturday's feria, beautiful melodies, journals out, sunshined faces, siesta time. And those trees- shedding their whimsical leaves, stories exchanged, local treats being devoured and washed down by cold brew, incense stick mid-circle...and then out of nowhere, a mist descended upon us. It was lovely.

el chalten: treksters paradise.

2008-11-04T09:30:00.000-08:00

Three hours bus ride northwest of El Calafate lies Argentina's trekking capital, El Chalten, gateway to the northern half of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (Calafate to the southern sector). Thrown together in 1985 to claim the land before Chile could, it's Argentina's youngest town, made up of a few gravel roads, itty homes and shops. Very frontier. Stayed at a woodsy hostel and had the opportunity to make friends with a sassy Aussie couple, a mother-daughter combo from Belgium, and a "puma hunter"- the photographer who spent his days in search of puma territory, hoping to score a few frames. And let's not forget Cecilia (my mother meets Rosa the Marmalade Lady from El Galpon)- presh. Each and every morning I'd roll out of bed bright n' early and approach Cecilia with "Adonde debo ir hoy mi amor?" (Where should I go today my love?). The weather brought much uncertainty, kept all of us on our toes...the big question of the day being which trail to take and what peak or range might or might not be visible. Stressful, I know.

Laguna Capri

En route to Laguna Torre. Cragged valleys with milky aqua rivers flowing below, tiered waterfalls, blankets of verde, snowdusted Andes towering from every angle. The hike started out crisp and semi-clouded...

...and by the time I reached Laguna Torre, a storm was blowing in and the view of the Cerro Torre was fogged over- buuuust!!! I sat myself down at the edge of this lagoon with icebergs floating about, a glacier jetting down through mountains and into her waters...and about twenty minutes after I had sliced open my avo (w/my cherished bullhorned knife- as seen in photo) the snow started falling. Surreal. It was the perfect moment to break out the tunes and accompany this scene, this experience way up there in the Andes with a few songs by Sigur Ros...

Hiking towards Laguna de los Tres (the Fitz Roy range pictured above)

Due to intense winds and much fallen snow, unfortunately the last leg of the trail leading to Laguna de los Tres was closed. Upon my descent, I met a few trail friends- Marianela the ? from Buenos Aires, Yuval the officer from Israel, and Jerry the lawyer from Canada.

With much positive thinking and loads of high hoping for the weather to clear, my final day in Chalten was spent under an immaculate sky of blue. I opted for the trail leading to the Loma del Pliegue Tumbado, the only hike that offers the panoramic view de todo- both the Fitz Roy and the Torre.

After about an hour of knee deep, up hill snow sludging in my trustworthy asics, I arrived at the vista I had heard so much about, visibility and all (Cerro Torre, left & Fitz Roy, right). And as I was the only one up there, the entertaining-of-thyself with the camera was taken overboard, naturally...

el calafate: glaciers & spandex.

2008-11-04T08:48:00.000-08:00

Just returned to a heating up Buenos Aires after a few weeks of trotting this grand country of surreal landscape. Patagonia did me well. Hard to describe the essence of that territory below...so overwhelmingly peaceful, and rugged, and spacious. "Magical" was a term thrown around quite liberally, both in my journal as in conversation with those I met on the road. Allow me to do my best in sharing with you all some of that magia encountered...

First stop was El Calafate, a touristy pueblito of chocolate shops, gift stores, and outdoor adventure companies- it's primary existence based on its close proximity to the Perito Moreno Glacier, a stepping stone to this Argentine "must see". I was warmly welcomed into Matias' house (from couchsurfing) upon my delayed arrival, given a key and his bedroom- he insisted and took the mattress on the kitchen/living room floor. Due to the wee size of Calafate, there are only a few couchsurfers and therefore the hospitable as ever Matias has hosted a whopping 150 plus couchsurfers from around the globe...interesting that he himself has never left Argentina. When he does cross the frontera, to wherever in the world he may go, no doubt he'll be taken care of. (He also told me that quite a few have actually lived with him, as in they came to Calafate and never left...one of his fondest couchsurfing memories is of the three Aussies who stayed for 6 months...!?!) I spent a few fabulously mellow nights hanging out with Matias and his roommate (also Matias) and their compadres. We talked California, reggae music, and family. I switched up their dinner diet for a night and prepared a dish of roasted veggies and lentils. And in that there warmed up casita of Matias, the mate flowed among us, as did the laughter. Cheers to Matias 1, 2, and crew.

Glaciertime. I was incredibly hesitant about dropping so much plata for the "minitrekking" on the glacier, but after speaking to a few locals, my hesitancy was swayed and I buckled. It turned out to be well worth it, not only allowing for a visible experience but a tangible one as well. Also met quite the cast of characters while out there on that massive hunk of ice in my spandex, including the comical Rita ("Rits" as I called her) from Florida who belted out key phrases like "holy frijoly", Tracey from Malaysia, a soft-spoken beauty...oh and let us not forget about Maureen from Florida (no connection to Rits), Janice #2 I tell you!!! The voice (to the T), the ceaseless questions, slightly off kilter socially...and oh that kooky spirit! I was in heaven, couldn't stop following her around. Most of you aren't familiar with this Janice lady I speak of, but for those of you who are, enjoy the photo below and just imagine what bf's they would make...

Lago Argentino

cosas d la calle: baires.

2008-10-15T04:46:00.000-07:00

la feria de los mataderos

2008-10-07T15:38:00.000-07:00

Located in the southwest barrio of Mataderos, this Argentine fair is held every Sunday where local and foreign alike gather to celebrate all things Argentina. I've hit this feria up twice now, and each time has proven to be a sensory "wow". This past Sunday on the 50 minute bus ride over, I asked my neighbor if she knew how close we were...she wasn't sure, but 2 minutes later, she sniffed the air and said, "Ah, we shouldn't be too far off. You smell that?" I wasn't quite sure what she meant, and she went on to explain how the air in the area of Mataderos carries a unique scent, "It smells of dead animals- from all of the livestock killing that goes on in these parts...." Although I was unable to smell the bloodshed (thankfully,) my senses were on overload as I reentered that bustling market...I saw a colorfully clad llama, came real close to devouring a salchicha sandwich (total regret,) did about ten rounds of dulce de leche testers, and purchased three wooden spoons, a dream catcher and some mate. A divine day it was.

un shoutout pa mi sposita.

2008-10-07T14:22:00.000-07:00

Interesting how many "homes" one can acquire over time...and bundled up with each of these experiences of home are those smells, tastes, and feelings that can only and will ever only be associated with that one unique place, and in many cases, in that one unique time in your life-- something you can never quite translate to someone who wasn't living it right then and there. Having Colleen on my side these past 9 months was the greatest blessing...from the hard knocked days in the favela to the swanky nights out in Buenos Aires...we've lived a few South American realities and I'm gonna have to say, "We done good." Last Wednesday my "sposa" (short for esposa meaning "wife" in Spanish) bussed it across the Andes to Valparaiso, Chile, where she is now living with those inspiring godparents of hers, Rob and Jude, for a few months while working at their restaurant. As for mua, I've got one week left here in Buenos Aires, and then I am off to Patagonia for a few weeks, to breathe a fresher air and cleanse 6 months of city from my system :) And then? Well, it seems that I will be back in Brazil sooner than I had planned...her coastline is calling me. But more on that later...

Me & my sposita.

merrymaking

2008-10-04T15:34:00.000-07:00

Let me share with you some of the swell times recently had prior to my wife's departure...

Birthday dinner with the girls at Miranda.

My sposita & I.

Colleen & buddy Mateo.

James, Col's family friend of many years, stopped over in B.A. on business and we were lucky enough to meet up with him for dinner at Osaka and a rooftop party in San Telmo...

Dinner at Osaka (Japanese-Peruvian fusion.) Perhaps some of the best food I have ever eaten in all my life. This round of tapas came out up in flames...

No hay palabras...

The lovely Yessica.

Becca, Grego, Mariuxy, Johanna & I at Sugar.

Becca, Col, & I with new Aussie friends at Il Ballo de Mattone- a favorite spot here in P.Hollywood.

Adrian, Col & I.

Me, Romuald, Mathieu, & Adrian at Conga.

Yessica, Julieta, & the Spositas at rooftop terraza party.

Una noche lindaaaaa.

cumple + despedida

2008-10-04T14:39:00.000-07:00

The festivities have been in full force these past few weeks...my personal favorite gathering being the shindig we threw at the apartment- a feliz cumple to me and a goodbye to Coller :( All of our bestest friends were in attendance and spirits were on high. Makes it hard to think about leaving these people I have grown so close to these past six months...

Julie, Colls, & Juliets do their thang.

Robin, Becca, Durban & HB.

La profesora Julieta & her students :)

Jenni, Mathieu, Juancher & I.

I met/gave Don & Marie massages the night before- fabulous couple just recently relocated to B.A. for a while (I knew I liked these guys when Don asked me post-session, "You wanna stay and have a caiparinha w/us?!") Marie and HB (Becca & Durban's friend from Portland) really hit it off- "He's my brotha from anotha motha!" she kept shouting...

Besotes grandotes!

The fab five always on the d-floor. "Somos el nucleo!!!"

Becca, Durb & I...slash I've got Bec in a headlock.

Adore this photo of Becca & Juan...

She never fails us...

Californians unite: Robin, Mikey, Col & I.

HB & Bec. Straight love right there...

Baaaaaam!!!!!

one beautiful night @ la rica vicky

2008-10-04T13:59:00.000-07:00

I dedicate this post to that unexpected night of slumber a few friends and I shared a couple weeks back w/one kickin' group of Peruvians in one unassuming Peruvian joint known as "La Rica Vicky". We found ourselves at this horribly lit, no frills eatery quite randomly one evening as we wandered the streets post-Bomba (Monday night percussion show) in search of sustenance. It was Julie from France's birthday, and so of course, we all brought our festive energy into Vicky's, and immediately passed it along to the two other tables in the restaurant- giving way to one bizarrely beautiful noche. I suppose this was to be expected though, for when you throw a few Californians together with three Frenchies, two Argentinas, and a handful of Peruvians (plus a few rounds of cerveza)...good times are a given.

Newfound friends.

Mathieu buys not one bouquet, but he makes the flower vendor's night and buys all of them for his lovely Julie.

We made quite the scene running from table to table snapping photos of our motley crew.

We then tried to get photos with all of the staff...even managed to get the shy cook to come out!

Mathieu starts popping open the bottles of bubbly...

Coller, Mathieu, & Julieta.

Julie the birthday girl w/beer soaked hair (thanks to the Peruvians who literally poured glasses of brew on her head.)

Please note the bottle of Quilmes that big red mama has between Mathieu's spread-eagled piernas...

The hooting and hollering coming from these ladies was priceless..."Eso!Eso!Eso!Eso!"

After about 5 minutes of the whole restaurant chanting "Torta! Torta!" our waitress brought out this jello whipped cream creation...and without a candle to light, we topped this sucker w/a ciggy and started in on the "feliz cumple"...

Photo sessions taken out of doors...

Not sure where this bici came from...???

Saluuuuud!!!

rasta!rasta!

2008-09-16T15:59:00.000-07:00

There is no shortage of creativity found in the Buenos Aires hairstyle department. It's incredible, the way these Argentinos sport the dos...especially when it comes to the "rastas"- Argentine for "dreadlocks". Whether it's five dreadies shooting straight out the back of a shaved cabeza, or one lone dread running the span of one's back, I find myself intrigued, and yeah, one might say a bit inspired. I don't think I personally could rock the lock, but hey, to those who can...cheers to you!

mendoza: storms of dirt n' ice

2008-09-06T12:42:00.000-07:00

I do consider myself a positive individual, but there are times on ones journey when things, well, they just suck. The whole being optimistic bit- you just have to fess up, face the facts, and drop it :) ... a good sense of humor being an absolute must. Last week upon our reuniting w/Brit and Erasmo in Mendoza, things just weren't happening for us. I had had high hopes for this last minute escape from the city. We were going to the the highly raved about wine country of Argentina, and clearly, we would be sipping wine at the foot of the Andes...The city of Mendoza? I'm gonna have to go ahead and say it was 'okay'. No sparks, none at all. Some might say a little 'blah'. It did feel good to lounge in the sunshine at the park, and her tree-lined streets and plazas were pleasant, but I'm going to stick with 'ehh' to sum up my thoughts. Most travelers stay in Mendoza and then pack their days full of activity in the surrounding area- rafting, hiking, wining, and the likes. I suppose the first of our comical run-ins with disaster came on our "bikes n' wine tour" in Maipu. With Napa Valley in mind, we were picturing rolling vineyards, a charming country road, perhaps a crisp breeze wafting through...but I am assuming we came in the off season, because no era asi. I found Maipu to be a bit of a dumpy town, not the most attractive of places...and the neverending whistles from the male population was out of control. The majority of our 'wine tour' was set along the towns main drag- semitrucks and beat up roadsters blowing past we pedaling foreigner, creating some serious hot exhaust-debris inhalation. Not your healthiest bike ride. I must say though that the road did become more charming as we got farther and farther from town- as can be seen in the first few photos below. But don't be fooled...one bodega was perched right behind a gas station.
On our return trek, the scorching skies decided to deliver a windstorm of sorts, picking up all of the dust and dirt from Maipu's sunbaked tierra and lofting it about. Have you ever seen the movie Twister? Yeah, like that. Trash filled skies, alarms being sounded, branches falling on the unlucky (Brit being one of them)...oh it was madness. Biking in such conditions wasn't the most pleasant experience, as ones vision was entirely impaired and lungs were filled with the grit of a city whose name sounds like "my poo". We were basically in the dustbowls of Steinbeck's Grapes of Wrath.
Back at the hostel in Mendoza, we thought, "We've gotta get out of here..." and after a few hours of indecisiveness, we jumped on the 2:30am bus and headed for the peaks of Las Leñas. And the story goes something like this: After scanty sleep, we arrive at the mountain at 7am. Snow is dumping. Brit and Erasmo are sick. Colleen is in a cotton dress. And I, well I don't love cold weather. Can we say, unprepared? Now, we can't afford to stay at the resort-esque hotels that lie at the base of the slopes, so we are without a place to go...and oh yeah, the bus that heads down the mountain and to Malargüe (where we will find a cheap hostel)- it doesn't leave till 5:30pm. Perfect. Our homeless, entirely ill-prepped for the snow day consists of four tired and hungry haggards hanging in a ritzy hotel lodge, riding the transit bus around, and dropping a ridiculous amount of plata on a measly bfast...and with loads of time to kill, thinking the whole time "Please don't kick us out..." Brit and Ras, who are really not feeling so hot (and with 6 hours until that bus departure) think it best to find lodging, and so after a few hours of catching up on shut eye in their room, Col and I bajar the mountain and head straight for Malargüe...

Now I have never been to Fargo, North Dakota, but Malargüe certainly brought up images of those stretches of nothingness from the movie entitled Fargo. Let's just say there wasn't a whole lot going on in the town I renamed 'Malargo'. As we wandered her frozen streets in search for a decent meal, we thought, "Where are we right now?" As you might guess, we never found that decent meal...and the hostel? "Ehh." The laughter was uncontrolable...both of us in that hysterically negative, make fun of everything mode...the decor of the hostel taking the major verbal beating- a given though, as it resembled a nursery school slash cafe, with a tumbleweed of monstrous proportions perched above the entrance armoir. The following day we packed up and headed back up the mountain to meet up with Brit and Ras. As Brit was still pretty beat, and as I wasn't dying to ski nor throw tons of money down for a few hours on the slopes, we kicked back in their toasty room while Col and Erasmo rocked the mountain (this, of course, came after 2 hours of frustrating haggle with the skipass grinch who wouldn't accept Col's voucher...never fails.) And so...the story ends. We parted ways once again and Col and I jumped on our lengthy bus ride back home to Buuuenos Aiiiiires...hallelujah.

fotos de paseo

2008-08-28T11:35:00.000-07:00

a few amigos

2008-08-24T12:50:00.000-07:00

Our good buddy Juan. I call him "Juanche" or "Juancher"- not sure if he is all that fond of it, but I call him that anyway out of cariño (a collaboration of his name, Juan, and "che"- the Argentine "hey" commonly used when addressing another person.) Fun Facts: He studies Sociology. He teaches kiddies how to play the guitar. And like the majority of Argentines, he takes weekly visits to the psychiatrist.
For more info on Argentina's obsession w/psychoanalysis: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5IJmcU-kwMM :)

Meet Julieta, our friend/tutor whose got dance moves like no other. She started off as a tutor, and then quickly thereafter a friendship was born. Our once a week tutor sesh always opens up with hysterical chitter-chatter surrounding Argentinos, weekend outings, and upcoming to-do's.

Fellow Californian Mikey. We met him and his roommate/best friend, Robin, at a party a while back. Small world story: Upon me telling him I did massage, he said "Oh sweet. Yeah, my tutor has business cards of a student of hers who is doing massage here, and some fliers for some wellness package deal..." me: "Wait, who's your tutor?" mikey: "Julieta." me: "Julieta is my tutor! And those flyers/biz cards- that's us! Col and I, we are 'Samatha'! (the name of our pilates/massage package deal that has unfortunately not gone anywhere :) ...I about died.

Lucas. He looks super serious in this photo- I promise he's a nice guy. Yet another small world story: The first time he came over, I met him downstairs to let him in the building...he asks me, "Are you in 1e? Martin's apartment?" me: "Whaaaat?" lucas: "Martin is a friend of mine, best friend's w/my ex. I was just recently in Europe for a month, and saw him while in Barcelona..." Wild, right? Turns out he had spent a lot of time in our apt as his ex-novia used to live here.

Kayton & Becca. Kayton hails from Atlanta, GA...Was working in BA up until a few weeks ago when he had to return to the States to take care of some things. Great guy. And Becca, as in the Becca & Durban who went to school w/my bf from back home, Phoebe...both are incredible gals- their zesty spirits and fun loving personalities I find absolutely divine.

I met Jenni (chica on the left) while she was working at Coragroppo, a favorite store of mine...I was being the extremely indecisive person that I am regarding that jacket I am wearing in the photo (went back to the store like 10x before making the purch,) and upon going for it, I basically asked her to be my friend. Haha. Sounds funny. But she seemed like a rad person and hey, it's not easy to make friends that are girls here. And so that was that. She is now an awesome amiga...Fun Facts: She has about a year left in her textile/fashion design studies. She makes a mean caiparinha. And her, Col & I are dreaming up plans to start an Argentine/U.S. bikini line... look for it :)

visitors, horses & catwalks

2008-08-23T11:59:00.000-07:00

Sammy & I at the San Telmo Street Fair.

After almost three weeks in the apartment solita, Coller returned from Chile and we were immediately met by a wave of visitors. Our first visitante, Sam, we had actually never even met- a nephew of Jude and Rob (Col's godparents slash good family friends who came to visit us in Brazil,) who was needing a little vacay before school got underway. One of the most easy going, pleasant-to-be-around chaps I have ever met...he put up with a lot :) as Col and I showed him the ropes of Baires in five days- I think he had a hellavuh time. Sammy's viaje overlapped with the arrival of Kauai-based lovebirds, Britney and Erasmo...many a good times were had as our days were filled with city meanderings, a horse race, workouts in the park, an apple stuffed-honey glazed chicken roast (which unfortunately was devoured in 5 minutes- we were in a rush, so yes, hands were involved,) groovin' at Bomba del Tiempo (a killer percussion show that Col and I often frequent on Mondays,) "Veronica"- Brit's peppy alter ego/workout prof persona that she puts on to lead her pound-shedding cardio sessions, a BsAs Fashion Week runway show (yes, Erasmo, being the trooper he is, went along...and totally enjoyed himself I might add!)...and lots of kickin' back at the apt.

Bife de lomo time at Miranda, our favorite parilla (steakhouse/grill) just around the corner.

An afternoon at the Hipodromo, Palermo's prime time horse racing track...

Britney Lee strikes a pose.

Buenos Aires Fashion Week is here. As Coragroppo is one of our favorite designers here in Baires, we hit up her show to see the not-yet-released designs on the catwalk. http://coragroppo.com/

A hand-banded duo. Brit & Coller at Bomba del Tiempo.

pretty woman...walkin' down the street.

2008-08-11T12:13:00.000-07:00

The inside skinny surrounding a few cositas that fill these days of mine...
...For some reason I crave apples at all hours, averaging about 6 a day- yesterday I had 8. Mom says I should cut back, but I don't see that happening anytime soon. Sorry mamers! For a little something dulce I've been slicing up sweet ladies, topping them with a glaze made of fresh lemon juice, raw honey, cinnamon and oats, and throwing those babies in the oven. Super-rica!
...I am a total gym rat-there's just no denying it. The classes at La Imprenta Fitness are superb. Absolutely obsessed with spinning, and my stretching teacher Walter? Don't get me started. The man is a hoot, and a hero- he is helping me with my tightening-of-the-quadriceps tendencies. I have a few middle-aged lady friends who I pump iron with, sauna with, etc...oh how I love charlar-ing it up with my fellow gym rat friends! The ambiance of the classes differ greatly from those I've taken in the States- there is sooo much more chitter chatter (esp from the female boca,) and when an exercise proves tough, these women will just scream out (literally) sighs and gasps like no other. And some of these bordering-on-sexual movements that the profs have us do in GAP (glutes, abs, piernas) class? Wow. A bit much, but I do find it rather comical. You know what's also entertaining are some of the getups that the sixty-something ladies wear...we're talking pantyhose, skintastic body suits in sparkled fuschias and golds, all topped off with a headband to match. It's incredible.
...Been meeting a lot of really fabulous people lately, hosting cenas and get togethers at the apt (which by the way I am still obsessed with) and hittin' the town with newfound amigos. I am struggling in the friendship photo department, but once I get my act together I'll be sure to post em'!
...And my first time experience as a masajista? You know, other than the minor bump in the road here and there, I must say that it's been treating me quite well. It's allowed for a flexible schedule which we all know I loooove, but of course the downside is the lack of consistency- one week I'll have six massages, the next, two. It's all very spur of the moment. The majority of my clients are those simply passing through Baires, most of them being businessmen from the States. The whole situation: me, young girl, with my massage table, oils, and música relajante going to the hotel rooms of men in a foreign city...seems pretty sketchy, right? Thank the good Lord I've not run into any bad situations thus far. Most I can see coming from a mile away- take for example, the guy who needed to talk to me on the phone regarding the session (whaaat?) who then proceeded to ask me in his creeper voice if I provided anything other than massage. It's really frustrating to be practicing massage, such a beautiful form of art and wellbeing, in a country that tangles it so liberally with sexual content. Those disturbing emails, they come every now and again, asking for photos, or if I am available at ten o' clock that evening...straight to the recycle bin they go! As for the folks I've actually met and worked on, it's been wonderful...and even better when they are residing here in Baires as I am able to develop a relationship with them. One client who I just actually met for the first time last week, lives in a 3-story penthouse (w/pool and parilla on the rooftop terrace) with a killer panoramic view of the city...he talked my ear off the entire massage (real nice guy- friend of a friend,) and then post-massage offered to take me home...I hesitated, but then thought alright- might as well save some plata. So there I am, total scrounger waiting on the curb with my massage table, and out he pulls in a slick-rick Ferrari! Can we say Julia Roberts and Richard Gere? Straight out of "Pretty Woman" let me tell you...I about died. Funny thing is the camilla didn't even fit in his hotrod ...hahaha... had to take a taxi.

l.i.f.e.

2008-07-28T12:02:00.000-07:00

About a month or so ago I began volunteering for an organization called L.I.F.E. (http://www.lifeargentina.org/,) a non-profit that works in socially marginalized and extremely impoverished areas of Argentina- their objective being to raise the standard of living and daily environment of children, providing them with otherwise inaccessible opportunities. L.I.F.E. offers a number of recreational, educational, and social activities, all of which are set in the outskirts of the city, known as the villas. In order to wholly connect with the chicos, I decided it best to simply pick a site and stick with it...and so each and every week I jump in that beater of a green van packed tight with others from around the globe, and reunite with the youngsters of La unión hacia la fuerza...

a leaf on my bed.

2008-07-18T20:28:00.000-07:00

This past Tuesday Col and I said chau chau to Luis M. Campos 381 3C, somehow managed to get all of our crap (including my massage table) plus the two of us into a taxi, and moved it on over to bigger and better (not to mention cheaper!)...Welcome to our dwelling on Bonpland 1693 1E.

Oh I couldn't be more feliz right now. This place is fabulous. Set in Palermo Hollywood, a subsection of Baires' largest neighborhood (Palermo,) our new pad is perched at the cross-section of two popular, but neighborhood-esque streets (I can't tell you how nice it is not confronting a main drag, ie. Luis M. Campos, each and every morning upon leaving the apartment...no way to start your day.)

Some of the city's most happenin' cafes, bars, & restaurants can be found scattered throughout Palermo Hollywood which makes for 24-hr action on the streets below (noise- yeah, we've got noise.) Although our old apt was sleek and quiet, my oh my we were aching to bounce out (esp with all of those damned rules/regs we were living with- no way to live.) We were in need of something with a little more character, a little more onda ...everything was so modern, blank, and regimented in theme, the color palette being black, white, and silver, making it hard for even a bouquet of flowers to survive up in there.

I cannot even begin to describe how much more this place suits my (our) style...super tall ceilings & large windows allowing for divine amounts of natural light and fresh air to waft about, hardwood floors/table that aren't white (yeah that's a no no,) funky decor, heaps of color, paintings on the walls...the living room is very 1960's salon- I can picture it now: a few nicely groomed older gents conversing the afternoon away, cigar in one hand, and hard liqueur on the rocks in the other...in the corner, a red-lipped, sassy lady friend, surely adorned in jewels and mink, sits back puffing on one of those extra long cigs. Love it. Oh and we have a balcony! Always wanted one of those.

Geesh, I am so thankful for this space, this light, this color! And the visual access to the outside world? So necessary. There is nothing quite like having sunshine shine throughout your living quarters- makes for a perfect afternoon of relaxing in a comfy chair with a book and fresh fruit a mano, the warmth of the sun gracing your cheeks. I have found that around 2pm the sun enters our bedroom window just so, pouring light out onto the bed and creating some of the most exquisite journaling-chill out sessions EVER. Yesterday I found myself truly delighted to find that a large leaf had made it's way through the window and onto the bed where I sprawled...it's the little things that keep me going I suppose- what would we do without em'? Cheers to sun-kissed faces & leaves on your bed.

love the taxistas

2008-07-13T21:03:00.000-07:00

Just thought I might take a moment to shout out some love for the cab drivers here in Baires...
I feel as if every time I am either going to/returning from a massage, my happiness level skyrockets. Perhaps it's the hablar-ing in Spanish, or maybe it's the brief glimpse into a strangers story...whatever it may be though, through it I find contentment. Connecting with this taxi drivin' population of porteños has provided much entertainment. Exchanging stories. Talking authors, elections, culture, weather- the whole shebang. Often times with taxistas you've got to be the forward one and throw at them the "¿Cómo te va tu día?" and from there, well, most are elated to chit chat it up for a while...but every now and again I'll receive the short, blunted answer that leaves me hanging...I suppose ya can't win em all.

what i would give...

2008-07-13T19:07:00.000-07:00

My days are void of blues and greens, of dirt and leaf, of tank tops and flip flops. Hearing from all ya'll back home speak of days spent in the mountains, on the sand, and in the water...it doesn't digest well! While I stand on congested avenues throwing my body out into traffic to snatch a cab, you people sit lakeside sipping on brewskies and eating guacamole. While I throw on my fleece and alpaca cap to brave the brisk morning walk to the gym, you people strip down to your bikinis and board shorts and hit the beach for a little wave riding and sun worshiping. While I look outside my window and see a brick wall, you people look outside your windows and see warmth. I'm throwing myself a major pity party here, no denying that one... :) And really, it's not all that bad...I like to be dramatic at times, especially when it comes to this city slicker-in-the-winter lifestyle that I am taking on. It's plain and simple though- I am craving summer. What I would give...to breathe crisp montaña air, to cruise on a bike, to stretch out on sand! I suppose it's time I get myself up out of this mayhem and back in touch with good ol' Madre Naturaleza. Cheers to that.

markets, bars, & wellness brought to you

2008-06-16T19:47:00.000-07:00

So, ever since we arrived in Baires, we've been a bit over the top (typical) about exploring our health food store/restaurant & farmer's market-style options...and naturally, the search has yet to come to a halt (note: I find it necessary to enter every single "dietetica"- natural food store, to ponder the selection even though each store basically sells the same items for basically the same amount. It's too much, I know.) A few weeks back we discovered one hidden gem that must be jotted down: El Galpón. Open just two days a week, this marigold painted, barn-like market can be found nestled next to/behind the train station La Estación Lacroze- a sketchy area no doubt, rough around the edges, but delightful nonetheless- a true diamond in the rough.

A pot of gold at the end of the road.

Due to the small size of the building, the setting is intimate and communal...and the vendors are absolute characters! My favorite is probably the dairy man who can usually be found sporting a cap, scarf, and grin. A vibrant wee man he is, always ready to dish the biggest, baddest testers of all time- we're talkin' hunks of whole butta atop a little pan, or even better, scoops of dulce de leche. He doesn't mess around. Best part is, he has black and white xerox copied photos of his farm, including the animals that produced the product you are about to purchase..."That milk right there...you can say thanks to Margarita!" he says, pointing to the photo of his prized vaca. Can't get enough of the guy.

He wins my heart each and every week...

Oh and then there's the spunky marmalade lady, Rosa, who reminds me a bit of my mom, chattier than all get out. Her spreads are to die for...some of her featured flavas: cherry w/walnuts, carrot & kumquat! Offering everything in it's organic form- from olive oil to wholesome yogurt, fresh produce to raw honey...El Galpón gets me thoroughly stoked on food.

I think that all of the vendors, including dear Rosa (above), have come to know Col and I as the foreign chicas who are always on the prowl for testers.

In other news (though still related to nourishment), Col and I have been running a Lara bar factory right out of our home, producing some of the best all-natural raw goodness I have ever eaten in all my 22 yrs. Seriously. If you are like me and fancy little energizing treats of the sort, I urge you to run on down to the mercado to pick up some dried fruit and nuts, and get crackin'- you won't regret it. For some inspiration, featured below are a few of our creations:

La tierra: 1 cup pitted dates (the stickier the betta) . 1/2 cup finely chopped cashews . 1/2 cup finely chopped walnuts . 1 cup sliced dried apples . 1/2 cup raisins . lil' nutmeg (little goes a long way) . cinnamon . flaxseed (optional) .

El choco-coco: 1 cup pitted dates . 1/2 cup finely chopped cashews . 1/2 cup finely chopped walnuts . 1/2 cup chopped dark chocolate . 1/2 cup shredded coconut . lil' nutmeg . cinnamon . flaxseed (optional) .

El sueño pacana: 1 cup pitted dates . 1 cup chopped pecans .

Sidenote: Measurements are all a bit rough...just try and keep it equal parts dried fruit and dry ingredients, all of which can be mixed & mingled a su gusto (other nice additions to experiment with: almond butter, seeds, oats, honey, dried apricots...) No holdin' back folks...get creative. "Go on get!"

Tasty lil' suckers.

The whole bar kick-off really got fired up because Col and I posted ourselves on craigslist (no surprise here) offering a "Wellness Package." You can pretty much have anything and everything delivered to your doorstep here in Baires (medication, groceries, ice cream till 2am- no joke)...so why not deliver a bit of wellness? SAMATHA ("stopping, calming, breathing" in Pāli) is the title of our service :) ...bringing people a 2-hr session of pilates, massage, and of course, the homemade bars paired with a calming tea. Heavenly right? All we need now is the clientèle...

a few nice lines

2008-06-08T09:26:00.000-07:00

"A man needs to travel. By his own means, not by stories, images, books or TV. By his own, with his eyes and feet, to understand what he is. To some day plant his own trees and give them some value. To know the cold, to enjoy the heat. To feel the distance and lack of shelter, to be well under his own ceiling. A man needs to travel to places he doesn’t know to break this arrogance that makes us see the world as we imagine it, and not simply as it is or may be. That makes us teachers and doctors of what we have never seen, when we should just be learners, and simply go see it."

Amyr Klink

smuggling georgie

2008-06-07T20:24:00.000-07:00

Kate sadly bid us adieu a little over a week ago, but I thought it absolutely necessary to feature two absolutely incredible photos of her...the first is a head shot that makes me chuckle every time I look at it. Oh I miss that girl! The second is at the San Telmo Sunday street fair, where Kitty bonded with a colorfully clad Native Indian from Peru. He asked her out on a date for later that evening...

Post-Kate's visit we found ourselves with an unexpected guest: Mr. Georgie. We first crossed paths with George in Florianopolis, Brazil, through the family with whom we couchsurfed. He graciously played our tour guide for a day and we were instant friends. A brief low-down on Georgie: real name "Jorge", Bolivian-American, U.S. home base = Los Angeles, film producer, yogi, vegetarian, extremely clean, can't stand the cold, nomadic tendencies... Given our ridiculous "no guests for more than one night or else we'll make you pay" apartment situation (don't get me started,) we had to be super suave about sneaking Georgie in and out of the building. I am not quite sure how we managed to keep our guest a secret, but we pulled it off. We failed with both Jodie and Kate and were tagged with the $200USD fee. Frustrating. Just a few other things worth venting about: 1. Our neighbors (who we never see) complain that we shut the door too hard (what?!?) 2. Leo, the awkward doorman, his sister Roxanna not only cleans our place once a week, but she is also secretary to the owner of the apt! All eyes on us. 3. New rule imposed: $500USD fine for noise complaints after 10pm. Hard to abide by when the walls are paper thin- and although we have come close, we have yet to get our first warning. Fingers crossed. Anyway, having Georgie here was great fun- lots of cooking, good conversation, and speaking Spanish (he was a wonderful influence...kicking our desire and need to speak Spanish with one another into full throttle.) Looking forward to seeing him soon as he will be settling down in BsAs for a while after his trip to Bolivia...

Georgie expressing some raw emotion at the ArteBA exhibit.

Me, Col, Mauro (Georgie's friend), & G at "Bomba del Tiempo"- a Monday night percussion showdown that really gets ya movin'.

"katarina" comes to town

2008-05-21T05:50:00.000-07:00

The lovely Miss. Kate Elliott has blessed both Col and I with her two and half week visita . She has taken on the name "Katarina" while here in Buenos Aires, and when introducing herself, the name bolts out of her mouth with Argentine flair, rolling "R" and all. She also finds it natural to throw a kitty hiss or two into her sassy intro, only inducing a case of serious hysteria in both Col and I. We simply cannot get enough of her. Our activities thus far have included endless wandering the streets of B.A., heaps of mint tea and mate, and a benefit concert featuring the one and only Shakira...

We scored the tickets through a massage client of mine who was in B.A. on business...I found out mid-massage that he was a manager for musical artists including Latina diva Paulina Rubio, who was also performing. The benefit concert was put on by Fundación ALAS, a non-profit organization that strives to "give wings to the children of Latin America."

ALAS is a movement dedicated to the children in Latin America. Founded by Latin America's most influential artists, intellectuals and business leaders, this unique non-profit organization strives to launch a new social movement that will generate a collective commitment to comprehensive Early Childhood Development programs for the children in Latin America. Latin America has 54 million children age 5 and under and no less than 32 million of them are currently living in poverty. A catalyst for change, ALAS will work to improve the children's lives by creating a social movement that delivers effective health, education and nutritional programs during their most influential years of development through comprehensive Early Childhood Development. http://www.alasthemovement.org/default_en.asp

The concert was quite a treat...especially because these past few months Col and I have been saying how sweet it would be to see Shaki do her thang live. I about lost it when one of my personal favorites, Wyclef Jean, came out for a little "Hips Don't Lie" collaboration. I was in heaven.

Coller and Katarina workin' it out.

Kate & Col ran a marathon this past Saturday (above they fight over the prized medal). I, on the other hand, opted out of the race as I am not a fan of running with the masses...makes me a bit anxious :)

Nuevos amigos: Adrian, Martin, & Ariel.

Tea time with Kitty Bean.

soy masajista

2008-05-18T22:36:00.000-07:00

"...And her job situation?" The thought might have crossed your mind a time or two...or perhaps it hasn't. Well, in any case, it goes something like this: Before coming down here, I was hoping to find an English teaching position (what most foreigners do in B.A.) as well as find work as a massage therapist. The fact that I am without a work Visa only worried me a wee bit (I had heard it would be an advantage to have one, but it was not a necessity.) About a week or so after we arrived, I began emailing spas around the city, introducing myself and my desire to work in B.A. as a massage therapist. I received two speedy replies, did the whole interview bit, and soon thereafter found myself suiting up for my first day as a working massage therapist at Bella Club (hooray!). Let me note that this "outfit" I have to wear, yeah, no no...we're talkin' a white, midriff bearing, 3/4 sleeved, mini-smock of sorts, and the pants, let's just say they were way too short and incredibly uncomf- thank God I was able to switch up the pant situation! Anywho. Other than the get-up, the spa is great. And I will admit, I have always been a bit "ehh" about working in the spa environment and have forever known that I wanted to practice massage in a more personable, private setting. But, with my desire to get things going in B.A., the spa route was the first to present itself and I wasn't about to turn it down. Bella Club is set in an old, beautiful building downtown...high ceilings, lots of light, nice and breathable. On the first floor you've got reception and the fitness area, and on the second floor you've got the spa (w/sauna, tub, and deck.) The gals at the spa are really sweet and super patient with me, always helping me out. Good vibrations. Another plus is that I don't feel as if I have to mold my massage technique to any specialized, brochure-defined style. Each of the therapists has the opportunity to bring his/her own style and employ what they know about bodywork. I like that.

In other job-related news, just a little over a week ago I made the big purch: my first massage table. It was a steal- only $290 pesos (less than US $100.) From the little searching I did, I have come to the general conclusion that table quality here- not so top notch, but what can ya do? I located the best one I could find (which just happened to be off of an eBay-esque website,) went to the factory (which just happened to be the massage table-maker's living room,) and thought to myself, "This search of mine could go on forever, put aside your indecisive ways Linnea and just go for it." And so I went for it. And having thrown down a pretty peso for my new camilla, I was not about to throw down more money to simply jump in a taxi and head home, stress free. No, no, no- I was going to be stubborn with money (I get it from my papi) and save those pesos...I was determined to get that thing home via Subte (the metro). Oh you should have seen me hauling that beastly piece of equipment across B.A.! I about killed myself.

So now that I am fully equipped for this outcall based massage business, I have been networking with other therapists, posting myself on Craigslist (what would we ever do without cyberspace?!) and tomorrow I am actually having business cards made! It has really been a fun endeavor... especially with the opportunity to work in a personable environment where I can more thoroughly connect with the individual, one on one...so much more my style. I have been most approached by English speaking people who are either ex-pats residing here in the city, or travelers who are just here for a week or so and are hoping to receive a massage while on vacay. Between speaking Spanish and serving the porteños at the spa, connecting with fellow Americans within the comforts of their homes away from homes, and teaching a few English classes throughout the week at a language institute right here in Las Cañits, I am finding a nice balance among it all. I feel incredibly blessed by the flexibility these jobs have to offer, as well as by the ability to mix things up a bit- a little of this, a little of that. It keeps things interesting you know, not so routine...and this is certainly how I hope to keep things rolling. And alas, a little money flowing in the opposite direction!!! After almost 4 months of spending heaps and making nada, this is some much needed supplement for the well-being of mind, spirit, and bank account.

home.

2008-05-14T20:13:00.000-07:00

bienvenidos a nuestra casita...

you can find us at:

Avenida Luis Maria Campos 381 Apt 3C.
Capital Federal 1426.
Buenos Aires.
ARGENTINA.

...wouldlovetohearfromya

saunas, buffets, & pine trees

2008-05-04T18:20:00.000-07:00

One of the prime time memories we shared while Jodie was here was our rendezvous at the Four Seasons in Carmelo, Uruguay...Jodie's papa works at the Four Seasons in Santa Barbara and was able to hook us up with an unreal suite at this unreal resort set amidst sprawling countryside and towering pine. Tranquility at its best. Although our days were few, we took advantage of every last amenity...

Our cozy dwelling.

Relaxing in the robes and slips was divine...

An intense round of pool.

A few of the pampered highlights...

...the morning buffet (an unbelievable spread) that was included...and better yet, we got to order from the actual menu itself! Due to our tight budget, the morning feast was our main food source...otherwise we hoarded the apple and almond bowls, straight up emptying them into our pockets.
....hours and hours lounging at the spa...I think we clocked in a good 7-8 hours each day.
...wandering around the premises of the resort- the crisp air, trees, and wide open space did me well.

bags to bureaus

2008-04-26T21:25:00.000-07:00

We made it. Just a few weeks back Col and I were layin' low on the beaches of Brazil, and here we are now in the hip and happening Buenos Aires, settling into new accents, a new apartment, and a new pace of life.

Our entrance into life in Buenos Aires was made especially comfortable by the fabulous Becca and Durban, two gals our age who are old college roommates/good friends of one of my bffs from back home, Phoebe. They graciously let us crash at their apartment while we hunted for a place of our own, while also giving us the inside skinny on the city (which they continue to do today). Thankfully the exhausting apartment searching days were few, and soon thereafter we were moving into our new abode, unloading heaps of stale clothing and thanking the good Lord for a place to settle for a while. Alas, space of our own! Such a wonderful feeling. Our apartment is located in Las Cañitas, considered one of BsAs' more chic neighborhoods ...tree-lined streets, stylin' restaurants, trendy boutiques...a really cute area. And although foreigners (by which I mostly mean Americans) mix and mingle in the streets at night, I haven't found it to be teaming with tourists which is great. And the apartment itself? Wowsa. It's pretty slick, clean and simple, a bit bachelor-esque. You want to talk about change of pace, going from the humbling ways of the favela to this washer/dryer business, internet at home, clothes in closets, toilet paper down the pipes...??? Such luxury! I definitely feel spoiled. It's fun though, that this new "home" of ours matches the ambiance of the city outside our door. Cheers to a new city to discover...

Thank the good Lord this city has lots of green refuge...

The language switcharoo threw me for a loop, not gonna lie. While in Brazil I was so focused on getting Portuguese down, that when all of a sudden I found myself in Spanishlandia, I was struggling...throwing Portuguese in left and right, mixing the lingos like a wild woman. Super frustrating. Little by little though, the Spanish is rekindling and I am doing my best to adapt to the Argentinean accent...which I find incredibly elegant and beautiful! Finally I get to pronounce my last name (double L's) with the sexy "shah"...Me llamo (also with the sexy "shah") Linnea Visheygas...love it.

Another "must be told" is that my dear Jodie Mori was here visiting us for a whopping two and a half weeks. She arrived only a few days after we did and just actually left us the night before last...Oh it was such a treat having her here! Our days were full of exploration. We put many a mile on our kickers, meandering throughout this grandeur city and her neighborhoods, each with their own attitude and flavor.

Jodes and Coller spreading their wings in front of BsAs' Floralis Generica- its metallic petals opening every a.m. and closing up at dusk.

Speaking of flavors...the ice cream here in Buenos Aires? Not sure if you have heard much about this culturally rooted craze, but let me tell you one thing- never before have I tasted such delight. Ice cream is taken seriously here, nothing to be fooled around with. It's treated with much respect (as it should be) and these ice cream "shops" (highly competitive) look more like five star restaurants. My fav flav thus far is dulce de leche con brownie, though mint chip (intensely minty) is pulling in at a close second. We'll have to see if this all sways with time...

A night out with the ladies. Jodie, Durban, and Becca.

Please take note of that heap of grilled goodness before us!

Oh, and must I not forget to mention the steak!!! Now, I am not the biggest lover of red meat, but I think it almost impossible for one not to be swooned by the beef here in BsAs. We did quite the dining out while Jodes was here and I have to say that her bife de lomo (tenderloin) from the well-known Campo Bravo Steakhouse right in our hood ("Las Cañits") was by far the best steak I've ever had. Delish.

Beef consumption at Campo Bravo.

A few noteworthy memories from our time with Jodie ("...like Jodie Foster" we'd have to tell people upon introducing ourselves, the Spanish accent transforming her name into "Yodie".)
...Hittin' up hip hop night Thursdays with our sneakers on. We don't mess around.
...Cozying up late night watching "The Hills" (sad but true).
...Ice cream parlor hopping...Persicco's and Volta are our top picks. Freddo's didn't do much for us.
...Making our way around this ceaseless city. So much to do!
...Our lavish escape from the city to the Four Seasons in Carmelo, Uruguay.

Such a blessing having my Yodie here with me!!!

hitching, natural goodness, & spirited brazilians

2008-04-23T21:38:00.001-07:00

Florianopolis- doesn't it just sound cool? Before I had even set foot on Brazilian turf, I knew this was gonna be a list topper. The books describe it as what California was like in the 60's...a meshing ground of beach, hippies, and bohemian vibrations. Any place that's got those three elements...I'm all there! And...(this might be the best part,) Floripa (what the locals call it) is considered to be one of the only, if not the only, pockets of health-conscious, eco-friendly people all throughout Brazil! Alas, natural food stores! Oh I was in heaven the minute we stepped into a restaurant and read menus that spoke of salads, hearty sandwiches, and natural juices. Gold mine.

A whole lotta chillin' at Praia de Campeche.

One of the things that made our week in Floripa so incredible was that we were able to stay with the locals...and for free!!! This is all due to the CouchSurfing Project (www.couchsurfing.com)- which "seeks to internationally network people and places, create educational exchanges, raise collective consciousness, spread tolerance and facilitate cultural understanding." Pretty sweet, right? Basically, its a worldwide community of travelers opening their homes to fellow travelers...you know, people helpin' people. I contacted a few couch surfers in Floripa about perhaps staying with them...and just a few days before we were set to travel to the island of Santa Catarina (Floripa is the capital), I got the thumbs up from a girl named Grazielle...

Meet "Gra"...doing her thang on the guitara.

My first CouchSurfing experience was a success let me tell ya. We stayed with "Gra", her sister, Flavia (who they call "Fla"), and Fatima, their unbelievably youthful looking mamacita (and their two scary looking, but harmless pit bulls). Such a chill household (perhaps due to the constant marijuana intake? I've never seen anything like it!)...all of them very artsy, laid back, and super welcoming. I felt right at home...I actually felt like I was back in Santa Barbara, especially with the beach just 5 minutes down the road. We had the chance to meet a lot of their friends, including our tour guide for a day, George, an American living in Floripa for a few months...active, kick back, yoga instructor slash video producer, well-traveled. A sure highlight was the bike rentals, allowing us to pedal our way from beach to lake, natural food store to health food restaurant. Hitchhiking was another plus...a major way of transport for many of the locals...you should have seen Col and I trekking along the roads with our thumbs held high- good times, good times indeed.

Forte! Forte!

Party time with the family and friends. Nossa!

The fabulous Mark, Gra's bff. "Me ajuda, gente!"

Having the opportunity to stay with a family- in my opinion, it's the best way to travel. We were able to speak the language, meet the locals, and connect with a place outside of the travel guides...it doesn't get much better.

Gra and Fla's hysterical mother, Fatima. "Okay! Okay!"

Que gostoso! Acai topped with banana and granola...we took down as much of this Brazilian treat as we could- it will be missed greatly.

Gra and her friend gave us a kitchen side concert...quite the collabo!

There is something quite special about Brazilians and the smiles and the spirits they carry with them. On our last night, Gra cooked up an amazing meal for a large group of us. Post-dessert, the guitar came out and the songs were being sung, accompanied by lots of head boppin' and hip swayin'. The laughter was tangible. I sat there gazing around the room and an overwhelming rush of happiness came over me...that rush of heartwarming glee that makes you think- damn, these people know how to live.

Our last night in Brazil, getting ready to feast...

pit stop paraty

2008-04-22T21:12:00.000-07:00

Leaving Ilha Grande was not easy. Our indecisiveness hit us hard (nothing new)...but we felt the need to check out Paraty, a colonial town that is perched right at the heart of Brazil's Costa Verde (Green Coast). The setting is beautiful, I will give it that...our hostel was right on a peaceful bay, behind us was nothing but lush greenery. And the downtown area, with its white washed walls, vibrant accents, and cobblestone- straight out of a storybook. Precious. But... because we were there in low season, the town was especially quiet, the streets practically empty...and the weather was a bit dull. We admitted to the fact that we should have stayed on the island and listened to our local buddy Rodrigo who told us that Paraty was "a place my grandparents would go"...but hey, life could be worse.

Just a short scoot away from Paraty lie endless stretches of well-known sand and surf...so we hit up the tiny beach town of Trindade for the day...

cheers to new friends

2008-04-22T06:59:00.000-07:00

A view of Abraao and her boat studded cove, the only town of any size on Ilha Grande.

After Rio we headed for the island of Ilha Grande, only a short scoot away from the city but a world away in terms of what it has to offer its visitors. With zero cars on the premises, this place is a peaceful oasis of green with an endless amount of trails and beaches...unfortunately, the sunshine only decided to come out our first two days, and then thereafter we got nothing but clouds and rain. Being the sun-worshiper that I am, it wasn't easy being on an exotic island with muddled skies, no it wasn't...but we did meet an humorous bunch from England who made our dewed experience on the island quite the experience.

Col, Chris, me, Susie, and Neil.

They were all a bit older than Col and I and had already clocked in years of backpacking it around the world on a budget, and now- they were simply enjoying holiday. We penny-pinching Americanas were taken in by these 30-something, English holiday-makers... and the good times just kept comin'.

Enjoying the reggae tunes with a few of the Englanders at the only nightspot on the island... Sarah, Susie, Sebi, me, and Col.

The day after we met them we boarded their private speedboat that they rented for the day and we had the otherwise impossible opportunity to explore the ceaseless skirts of this seemingly uninhabited island (only pockets of tiny communities, other than that, only dense swaths of jungle...it was precious!) The laid back vibes of Ilha Grande were a hit, and although the sun failed on us, the company was priceless and the laughter was constant.

Sarah, Neil, Susie, and Sebi kickin' back on the boat.

With foliage as our only refuge, Col and I found ourselves on a deserted Lopes-Mendes, the 7th prettiest beach in the world.

Coller stoked on life with a delicious bowl of acai in hand- we never seemed to get sick of it!

Let me also add Ilha Grande to our "Most Romantic Destinations in Brazil" list...we seem to be hitting all of the dreamy honeymoon spots, so if you are in need of a worthwhile coastal getaway for you and your lover, come talk to me...

head over heels for rio

2008-04-20T18:04:00.000-07:00

A roadside depiction of Rio's Sugarloaf Mountain in bohemian Santa Teresa.

Our travels throughout the south of Brazil have recently (and sadly) come to an end and here I sit before this neglected blog of mine, with almost too much to share with you all. I promise I'll keep it to a minimum...for my own sake as well- Col kills me because these blog entries of mine tend to occupy way too much of my time (perfectionist tendencies I suppose)- unhealthy, I know, but we're workin' on it. So, anywho, where to begin, where to begin. Let me take it back a few weeks, to the city I became obsessed with as our plane soared down among her mountainous ranges- alas, Rio de Janeiro! Col and I were both blown away by Rio. A perfect portrayal of city and nature in unison, the landscape is outrageous...you've got your high rises, your ritzy boutiques, your top-notch nightlife, but then you've also got your gorgeous beaches, your massive peaks jetting out of nowhere, and your Floresta da Tijuca, the world's largest urban forest. Oh I could go on forever at how awe-struck I was! Green, tropical, beachy vibes mingling with the buzz of a city...I had never witnessed any balance of the sort.

Standing atop Corcovado Mountain, Christ the Redeemer can be seen from almost anywhere in the city.

After two and a half months of living in Terra Prom, it was a bit of a shocker stepping back into a world of manageable weather and stylishly clad surroundings. Strange how in a matter of hours your lifestyle can change so rapidly, just like that. Rio did indeed provide some serious refreshment...especially after those days of exitless heat- it was exhausting keeping up! My energy levels were immediately restored and I'm not going to lie, I was ecstatic to be on the road- to explore the Brazil I had read so much about and to, well, put on some heels and get on a dance floor (after those few danceless months, Col and I were both aching to go out!)

Left to right: Thaiza, me, Cintia, Col, and Thiago's mama, Lucia.

Coller and I with Thiago and fam...

One thing that definitely made Rio so fabulous was the accommodation we got hooked up with. We stayed with the family of a friend of mine, Thiago, who I had met while traveling throughout Spain and who I had briefly kept in touch with over the years. Thiago and his family were incredible hosts, making Col and I feel right at home, taking we vagabond in with nothin' but love and showing to us their lovely Rio. One major highlight was our night out at a local samba bar with Thaiza (Thiago's twenty-three year old sister) and her best friend Cintia. My oh my, what a killer pair...nothing but chit-chat, laughter, and rockin' samba moves (they attempted to teach Col and I, and we really were trying to bust out with both the feet and the hips, but I'm afraid we weren't doing it justice.)

Thaiza and Cintia, pre-samba...

The energy that the crowd put out was something else...so much happiness, everyone so utterly in the moment. It's inspiring to be surrounded by people like this, to be enveloped in a culture where warmth and high-spiritedness permeates so much of each and every day. I have found the aura of this country addicting, no doubt. And Rio specifically...I am head over heels for this place, I truly am. Let's just say that in a few years time I might just have to relocate here and take on the title of carioca (a person from Rio)...oh la la that sounds nice.

A panoramic shot of Rio and her peaks, islands, and city below...

farewells

2008-03-26T12:47:00.000-07:00

The time has come for us to bid our goodbyes. How am I feeling? Ready. Yeah, ready...and a bit sad to part ways from those who have made this experience a memorable one. It's really quite bittersweet you know- leaving experiences like these...full of the up and the down, the challenging and the rewarding, the laughter and the headache. Our main focus here was work, and I think we stuck to the plan- work is what we did. Teaming with the ladies at Casa Cultural was quite the experience...comical, exhausting, inspiring. Their patience with our lack of language (although we did attain quite the fluency I must admit!) played a large role in the success of our work, as did their lighthearted spirits, laughter always in the air. These women carry heavy realities on their backs, and yet their spirits remain wholesome. Learning heaps.

Rather than overwhelm you with words, let me do so with photos. Whether we were working away at Casa Cultural with the mulheres, or kickin' back in the hood with the meninos, good times were had...

One of my favs at Casa Cultural, the adorable Dona Rita...how could you not fall in love with her? She sits in her corner working away, day in and day out, barely peeping a word...oh I could just pick her up and give her a squeeze!!!

Fatima and Dulce...

Mandalas were what we concentrated on...incorporating them in pillows, bikinis, and tops...

The pillows were my favorite items that we designed while here- here are a few of em'...

Babashuba...such a stud of a guy. At 79 years of age, he is as sociable as sociable gets, always out in the community hammering away. Such a workhorse that Babashoob.

The ultimate dreamboat of a child...

Oh Ozias!!!

The chickidee on the left, I like to call her Mariah (as in Mariah Carey)...she looks a bit like her, right? And the menina on the right is Josie...

I have failed to post a photo of Annie until now...here she is (left) with a Terra Prom favorite, Jeo.

Wagneide, our saving grace. From Portuguese lessons to talking about dreams, life, and boys...good times were certainly had.

Living with Dona Rita ("Rita-bean") and Senhor Jaimie...ay meu Deus...full of comedy, slumps, and having to be okay with never knowing what we were confronting day in and day out. Overall though, our homestay was wonderful- wouldn't change a thing.

A few things I will be missing from the casa...

1. Waking up to Jaimie's whistling each and every morning as he sets the table for breakfast.

2. Hanging out with Jarysson (their son who lives next door).

3. Jaimie's daily outfit: light blue shorts, with his lil' potbelly exposed- a shirt being a rarity for our Senhor. God bless him. 4. Jaimie's tinkering. He's always putzing around the house, fixin' something or other...always with a magnifying glass or a polishing kit at hand.

5. Dona Rita's homemade yogurt (I crave it at all hours).

Jose Luis, Ana and I...two fabulous feet-rubbers I might add.

Col and I became quite fond of our daily stretches at Annie's empty house in Terra Prom.

This allowed for much needed doses of peace and quiet- not sure what I would have done without this time. With the iPod bumpin', I made the patio my workout knitch...every time I sat up on a sit-up, this is what my eyes met...

Obrigada Terra Prometida

As for the agenda ahead, Rio de Janeiro it will be.

palm trees, barefeet, & a whole lotta bus

2008-03-18T09:41:00.000-07:00

Coller and I have recently returned from a fabulous vacay that took us from colonial streets to exotic isles...let me backtrack a bit to give you a taste of our experiences on the road...

Salvador da Bahia- Brazil's Afro-Brazilian mecca, a city I couldn't wait to greet. We spent the majority of our days roaming the historic center of Pelourinho, admiring her pastel-hued buildings, Baroque churches, and plazas- all scattered about amidst slopes of bulky cobblestone. Salvador's unique spirit palpitates throughout her streets- it's in the capoeira circles that form on the plazas, in the drums that can be heard at all hours of the day, and in the arts movement that has only splashed more color among this rhythmic city.

A few top knotch memories:
...Attempting to samba it up with the natives in the local samba spots- never have I seen a pair of feet move so quickly!
...Taking a visit to Mercado São Joaquim, a super sketchy waterfront market with rows upon rows of stalls, featuring everything from live goats and chickens to the blood-soaked innards of every animal imaginable. It was a lot to take in. With so many putrid smells wafting every which way, I felt a sigh of relief when we made it to the vegetable section. Although a bit gruesome, it was sweet to witness a market at its rawest.

...Rocking out at a killer reggae concert, set up on the steep steps of a gorgeous, dilapidated church. Much to my delight Bob Marley is an icon down here- the crowd went wild when the band played tribute to a few of Marley's melodies.

It was also in Salvador where we united with Rob and Jude- dearest friends of Col's parents from way back when. They took leave of their restaurant-running in Chile in order to meet up with us and enjoy the laid back groove of Bahia...oh what good fun we had!
After a few too-hot-for-your-own-good days in Salvador, we all agreed it was time to move on to our next destination: Morro de São Paulo. Although touristy, this charming, car-free island just a few hours off the coast of Salvador offers kickback days of beach, sun, and hours of mingling with diverse crowds from around the globe. We stayed at a tranquil and spacious plantation-esque pousada (pictured below), lounging at various beaches throughout the day, and each evening meeting up with newfound friends at the nightly festivities. I will forever treasure the conversation and laughter we shared with Rob and Jude on Morro, usually accompanied by a caiparinha or two, and the never-know-whatcha-gonna-get meals we were served. Hearing them tell of their globetrotting experiences back in the 70's, before travel became popular, was addicting- such inspiration these two are.

We also had the opportunity to venture to Boipeba for the day- a rustic island described as being what Morro was like 20 years ago. Between the thickly palmed interior and the ceaseless stretches of sand, this sparsely populated island was bordering on fantasy.

Our planned return to Fortaleza was bagged last minute when doors were opened for a trip further south to the town of Itacare, a surf, reggae, chillout haven that Col and I had hoped to visit but assumed was too far off our intended path. With spontaneous spirits we put off work a few more days and prolonged our Bahian jaunt. And boy oh boy did our hearts lead us in the right direction! We met back up with our friends from Morro (everyone we were meeting had a tendency to be on similar treks through Brazil) and joined their crew at the hostel, meshing with fellow soul seekers from England, Germany, Australia, and Israel. Let me add here that the majority of travelers we have come across are from Israel...after they have served their mandatory 2-3 years in the army, most save up their money and take off for a long period of travel, South America being a major magnet. And although I don't like to generalize, I must say that they are an extremely good-looking bunch of individuals- wow.

Our days in Itacare were heavenly. They consisted of the following medley: the tastiest egg & cheese sandwiches ever. serious beach time- the best we hit was the idyllic Prainha (above), a remote paradise (said to be one of Brazil's best) that requires a 45-minute hike through lush jungle. surf. açai bowls, granola, banana- hold the honey. read. swim. chill out back at the hostel. nap in hammock. frisbee on the beach with Jackson, the 60-something hostel owner who knows a thing or two about how to throw a disk (he taught me how to catch it behind my back- a huge success). sunsets on the beach. falafels for dinner (5 nights in a row- couldn't get enough). chill out at the hostel. ice cream runs- mint chip por favor. chill out some more. few beers at itacare's only bar-nightly hangout. cheers to new friends. As each day closed, I delighted in the fact that I got to do it all over again the following day...

It wasn't easy parting from this lifestyle and our tightly knit crew. Saying goodbye to peoples and places that you aren't 100% sure you will ever see again...this pains me! I will keep my fingers crossed though and hopefully we will run into at least a few of them further down the road. Vamos a ver. This grand trip of ours was topped off with a weekend of bus riding (total travel time was approximately 37.5 hours)...it really wasn't all that bad though, thanks to Brazil's top notch long distance bus system. And gracias a Deus we made it back to Fortaleza safe and sound...and with only a week or so left on the radar!

new families

2008-02-29T11:42:00.000-08:00

Only five minutes walk from Terra Prom lies an oasis called 4-Varas. A well-being center of sorts- a community project based on the nurturing of ones mind, body and spirit. Palm trees, thatched rooves, gardens, hammocks, and sea shells- a green piece of heaven let me tell ya. A perfect setting for this natural healing focus which includes group therapy and massage!!! Hallelujah. When Annie first mentioned 4 Varas I immediately knew that I would have to try and get some type of massage exchange going. And that's basically how the story goes.

For the past few weeks I've been graciously taken in by the 4 Varas nest, beijos and abraços always at hand. I've had the opportunity to trade with various massage therapists as well as teach them a bit about Swedish massage. Yeah, you heard me- teach. Really informal though. Often times I'll show up to give a massage and a group of students (who are finishing up their clinical hours) are hoping to learn about this so-called Swedish massage I bring from the States. It's been incredible- getting to pass along a little knowledge, and all while stumbling along in the half-Spanish, half-Portuguese dialect of mine, doing my best to maintain some level of flow and rhythm. I wish I had these impromptu sessions on video- funny stuff.
This experience has been unique, that's for sure. Learning about a different culture's approach to massage, and in such a hands on way, is something I've always wanted to do. And in such a tranquil scene? Stepping from the noise and dust ridden favela, into this place that breeds nothing but peacefulness...I am not sure I will ever entirely grasp it.

Annie took off for the States last week and alas we have moved in with Dona Rita and family. A few memorable experiences that might make you smile...
...Col and I went to have our nails done with Dona Rita last weekend. It wasnt't until about an hour after we arrived that Dona Rita sat down for the full on mani-pedi...designs on each nail to boot. A few more ladies showed up and the chatty kathy in each and every one of them was unleashed. Col and I on the other hand, we sat and we smiled, threw in a sentence here, a sentence there. Hot, tired, bordering on boredom- that we were. And then the giggles set in...when Col got in the hot seat and the gal who was doing her nails wouldn't let Col settle for her clear nail polish request. An unsure look spread across her poor face and let's just say that Col's keeping it simple on the nailbeds was shot to hell. I'm talkin' two flowers on each nail with glitter layered thick. It was hard keeping the laughter down let me tell you. And my mani-pedi experience? A bit painful- they really get down to the nitty gritty, pulling up every last piece of skin that appears to be ded...I did my best to be discreet about the minor jolts of pain that struck here and there. I must make note of when she drew blood and of this horrific powder that she applied on the cuts- oh how it stung! Other than that, she did well- huge props to her for even touching my feet my goodness. Not good. My right foot looks like its been through WWI, and worse, when she took off the nailpolish on my big toes, she uncovered an unhealthy set of nails. Slightly yellow toned with a strange texture- sure signs of pure neglection. Damned be my fathers genes! You should have seen the gal doing my poor feet- straight worried about my situation...and in true Brazilian fashion, she wasn't about to keep quiet regarding the nastiness that sat in her lap. All I could do was smile and say, "I know, they've got problems." Thanks to her efforts, they turned out beautious I must admit...and the polish (no designs thank God) masked the big guys- Gracias a Deus.

...Meet my host-father, Jaimie. He's got this funny quirk about our eating habits. Before we even moved in he openly expressed his desire to get we American girls nice and plump..."They won't even recognize you when you go back!" He always told us. And now that we are living with him, he's on this new kick, convinced that we simply don't eat and don't like any of the food he prepares (which really isn't always true- I must admit though, the omelette made with heaps of margerine and canned sardines wasn't easy going down!)...As Col and I eat he keeps a steady eye over our plates (with a smile slapped across his face- always)...often times he'll look up at us and start chuckling (have I mentioned this chuckle of his is addicting?) with a finger swag thrown in here and there. We try to convince him of our satisfaction with his cooking skills, but I doubt he will ever be convinced...

...Meet Jose Luis, one of Dona Rita and Jaimie's grandchildren...this kid doesn't lack in the affection department- always kissin' and lovin' up on Col and I...

...Last weekend we went to Cumbuco for some much needed beach action. Pictured below is Jarysson (son of Dona R and Jaimie) and his daughter Ana Clara.

...they call us "tia"

2008-02-21T13:18:00.000-08:00

...a few friends of mine here in terra prom. please take special note of the one below (teal background)- his name is ozias and i plan on smuggling him back into the states. since day one, he's been a favorite...a dream child. a few things that put this kid at the top: 1. he gives us dirt on the local up and up 2. he opens and closes doors for us 3. he speaks nice and slow 4. he thinks we are beautiful even though we feel the farthest thing from it, and most importantly- 5. he keeps a steady eye out for a sista...i dunno what we'd do without him!

from the roda to the renda

2008-02-16T08:35:00.000-08:00

Colleen and I, just call us capoeiristas. That's right, alas we have taken up one of Brazil's famed pastimes and we are, of course, loving every second of it. This past Monday we tagged along with Gisa and Waleska (with whom we carnavaled) to class... really quite unaware as to what was ahead. Everyone (ages 6-26) was super-welcoming and the farthest thing from intimidating. And this, this is a must for me...because when you throw me in new situations where I am expected to perform or be in front of complete strangers, all eyes on me...yeah, no good. As some of you may already know, the big showdown in capoeira goes down in the roda- a circle of "fighters" and melody makers...all clapping and singing, creating quite the ambiance for the two who are "battling" in the center- fluid, rhythmic and circular in movement. I was transported back to the capoeira class that I was in while living in Mexico...that same rush of excitement slash nervous nelly-ment set in immediately. With a rusty knowledge of even the most basic of moves, I was thrown into the lions den and expected to battle it out. Oh you should have seen Col and I...probably the farthest thing from fluid, rhythmic and circular! All smiles though, all smiles. Where as this class definitely lacks in teaching the basics, we joined another group last night that delivered all of this and then some. It's structure was much more newcomer friendly and the teacher helped Col and I out one-on-one, with heaps of patience and kindness to boot. And this particular class takes place only 10 feet from our front door...right at the heart of Terra Prom- it really doesn't get much better! This giving us the opportunity to get to know the often times hard-to-get-to-know teenage rascals...so we're talkin' a win-win situation right here. Social outlets for these kids, especially for the boys, they're hard to come by...so watching them come together, really stoked on something, it's pretty special.

Our work with the ladies is groovin'. We gave a presentation last week which focused on planting within them an inspiration, and a desire to go out on a limb and design and create. With the exception of a few, the designing efforts of the women are lacking- and trying new things out? It's just not sought after. It seems to me that a primary focus of the Brazilian culture is the here and the now...which I think is wonderful (and which many of us strive to grasp all of our lives)...but when dealing with the business side of things, the future (and often times innovation) must be taken into account...but this is a hard one to handle for these ladies and so naturally cultural blockades are built and misunderstandings arise. Oh but the possibilities that lie within their lace-making! Endless. We have introduced quite the array of ideas in collaborating fabric and renda...and we are currently working on the creation of a few new items including bikinis and pillows (below is our first pillow! The renda is inside the bird, the rest is crochet). We've also been experimenting a lot with color, creating new color-palettes for their pieces, etc...something I was looking forward to before I even arrived. So yeah...things are really moving- and aside from the minor glitches here and there, these ladies are pumping out new pieces like you wouldn't believe, and they seem to be enthused about it. I feel as if there is a new energy moving amidst the ladies and their work...a new buzz that gives me hope that perhaps we are indeed assisting in a rejuvination of their bobbined craft.

carnaval al fresco

2008-02-08T05:39:00.000-08:00

I must admit, it would have been nice had we fully understood the word barraca. When we showed up at our make-shift campsite (in a backyard), our miscommunication woes set in- the gringas were unprepared. Let's just say that I slept wrapped up in my hammock on the tent floor, with only a sheet to battle the cold, spooning Col the whole night through. Gotta love it. Overall, the trip was a good one though, a few minor annoyances here and there...this to be expected when you take a not-so-spacious backyard, stuff it with as many tents and Brazilians as possible, and throw ridiculous amounts of cachaça, Brazilian rum, into the mix... ruckus is usually the outcome. I do feel though that this was all overshadowed by our beauteous surroundings and by the spirit of this wee-town they call Guaramiranga (a fun word to say, especially when using that low, slow-paced voice that comes from the depths of your throat...go on, try it.). The main street, cobblestoned and charming, was the hub of all action: open air eateries spread throughout, artsy folks selling their goods made of lace, bone, feather, and wood, and festive music to back this social scene...delightful. I must make note that each and every year, a Jazz & Blues Festival comes to town for Carnaval- this alone putting Guaramiranga on the map for interesting places to be during Carnaval time...a much needed escape from the heat of Fortaleza.

Boy was it refreshing...waterfalls, crisp air, lush green... alas, my socks were put to good use! We also had the opportunity to meet up with Regina, a contact who I had been connected with via a friend of a friend (I love when things like this work out when traveling!)...and who I had been hoping to meet ever since our arrival in Fortaleza. It turned out that she and her family and friends were headed to Guaramiranga for Carnaval as well...So we met up, they took us in, nourishing our souls with nothing but love, chicken soup, and cookies made by the nuns down the street. Regina's circle of friends (probably in their 50's) and family are fabulous, quite entertaining, and all super interested in what we are doing. I took a special liking to the straight-to-the-point, stylishly-clad lady from São Paulo (whose favorite city is New York, who frequents the O.C., and who also adores Sex and the City...). How could you not fall head over heals? I am certainly looking forward to seeing them soon...

A few bits and pieces on the inside skinny here in Terra Prom...

...you know it's hot when you apply deodorant before you hit the sack- the sack being a hammock, placed right in front of a wide open door, the Atlantic only a little ways off. Without the consistancy of these offshore breezes, I'd be a goner. But I should ease up on this annoyance of mine with the heat, because I really don't mind it all that much...I will take it over frost and freeze any day, this is certain. One thing I will never grow accustom to though is the hot coffee consumption...I can hardly take down a hot bevey during the winter without having hot flashes let alone taking one down when the day is pushing 95 degrees...my oh my.

...poor Colls Bolls, she's covered in bites. Damned be those skeeters! Due to low energy levels a few days back, she reckoned she had dengue fever (she even mentioned malaria...yikes!). But thankfully, those times have passed and her spirits have since lifted. Keep your fingers crossed- that my travelmate may avoid any future contact with these winged little nuisances.

...the children here- i could go on forever. With skin of chocolate and caramel, their eyes so

excited to greet you..."tia! tia!" (which sounds like "chia! chia!") they holler as we pass, grabbing

hold of our waists, or eagerly taking from our hands bags of groceries and such. Our little

sidekicks...oh how connected i've become!

off we go to guaramiranga...

2008-02-01T06:16:00.000-08:00

In typical American fashion, we set out for a day of errand running- Annie, Jed (Annie's boyfriend), Col, and I, but of course, things strayed from the checklists when we happened upon Pão de Açucar. This "sheeky" supermarket consumed us all as we went up and down the aisles oohing and ahhing..."there is so much stuff!" Compared to our local corner stores in the favela, well, this was another world. With a few products such as olive oil, pesto, and lentils, our culinary creativity has been soaring lately. One find that I feel the need to make note of: açai bread...tastes a bit like a blueberry bagel- it's really quite fantastic.

And this Annie character I have mentioned? I guess you could say she is the backbone of Fairloom, the one who really got things rolling...and at the ripe age of twenty-six, she's accomplished a lot of goodness. This brightly-blue eyed, lover of nature (her and Jed work on trails back in New England) has taken Col and I under her wing, showing us the ropes of the city, the favela, and Fairloom. Getting to know the ladies and their work this past week has been a treat...and hearing about their stories from Annie- I am often times left speechless. With familial hardship taken to unfathomable degrees, these women have seen a hardknocked reality. And here, among me now, a handful of these courageous and talented women have joined together to create- not only the detailed renda, but also a motivation and an inspiration, to build a communal strength both in their hearts and spirits. An inspiration indeed.

Colleen and I have recently been adopted. Our living situation will be changing pace in a few weeks when Annie heads back to the States. Our work with Fairloom will continue, but we will be moving in with a family outside of Terra Prom, only a ten minute walk from Casa Cultural (where the ladies work). Col was linked to this family before we even arrived, through a friend who had studied in Fortaleza and lived with the fabulous Dona Gita (our new mai- mother). So of course, in true Brazilian fashion, Col and I were both enveloped in this family's good lovin' and offered a nest to call our own. We have been meeting and hanging out with various members of the familia and oh what fun this has been! Last night we met up with Gisa, Dona Gita's niece, and she has invited us to celebrate Carnaval with her and her friends. Yeah, that's right, it's Carnaval time here in Brazil...and due to our last minute planning slash isolation up here on the northeastern coast, we will not be able to experience this festival via the ritz and glitz of Rio nor will we party with the blocos of Salvador. For us, Guaramiranga it will be- a scenic village perched in the mountains a few hours outside of Fortaleza. My guess is that no matter where one is in Brazil, the spirit of Carnaval is on high, and I am definitely looking forward to seeing how the colorful slopes of Guaramiranga do it up during these highly anticipated days of frenzy. Adventure certainly awaits. Stay tuned...

kites, locks & mango

2008-01-25T05:53:00.000-08:00

My obsession with Brazil roots deep. I'm not quite sure how to define this intrigue of mine- perhaps its her peoples, her rhythm, her spirit. Whatever it may be, this dreamland of mine is at my feet and oh how this excites me so! Miss. Colleen Ferguson and I set our bags down in Terra Prometida a little over a week ago. This community of roughly 250 families is set in a favela (slum) in the northeastern city of Fortaleza. "Terra Prom" as Col and I like to call it, is perched right on the Atlantic, and although the ocean breeze makes the days heat bearable, her waters and sands out front are a bit of a tease to we gringo due to the high risk area.

The sights that surround me now are vibrant. Children kite-running, clotheslines zig-zagging, haggard animals roaming, folks just chillin'. The people here, they take "chill" to a whole new level. Bare-chested, pot-bellied men posted up on buckets, cards in hand. Chatty-Kathys lounge on their porches, commenting on those who pass by. And the children? They are everywhere- herds of them, out and about at all hours of the day. "When in doubt, grab a child to go with you," we were told upon arriving. I take comfort in knowing that we've got hundreds of mini-bodyguards up in here.
So as not to overwhelm you with my novelesque tendencies, allow me to take my sister's advice and provide you with a few random thoughts/highlights via bulletpoint...

...the diet here is one my insides are still getting used to- yes, the fruit is abundant and delectable indeed, and i was running off of mangoes and bananas for a while, but we all know that only led to increased bathroom visits. The only really rough day thus far though was the day I overdosed on cajus (cashews), only producing bodily hardship, not to mention I will never again be able to put a cashew in my mouth. Sad day.
...my Portuguese is coming along, passo a passo. Having Spanish in the forefront helps immensely, as does our informal Portuguese-English exchanges with Wagneide, a 16-year-old friend slash all-time lover of Harry Potter.
...locking things up, it just doesn't come naturally. Here in Terra Prom, we have to lock up just about everything. Our house, for example, has two locked gates before you even reach the front door (also locked of course)...and the locked doors within the premises itself??? This will be taking some getting used to!
...as for our collabo with Fairloom, we are getting to know the ladies and their indigenous craft, known as renda (bobbin lace) before we jump into the design scheme of things. Learning how to renda has been quite the experience- Col's already making garments with the women (just kidding-but she is quite the worker of lace) and I, well, I'm making progress. To learn more about Fairloom's vision, hit up their website: http://www.fairloom.org/.

And before I sign off, I must add that if you are feeling South America pulling at the strings of your soul, well, let's make it happen. My arms are wide open...