new families

Only five minutes walk from Terra Prom lies an oasis called 4-Varas. A well-being center of sorts- a community project based on the nurturing of ones mind, body and spirit. Palm trees, thatched rooves, gardens, hammocks, and sea shells- a green piece of heaven let me tell ya. A perfect setting for this natural healing focus which includes group therapy and massage!!! Hallelujah. When Annie first mentioned 4 Varas I immediately knew that I would have to try and get some type of massage exchange going. And that's basically how the story goes.

For the past few weeks I've been graciously taken in by the 4 Varas nest, beijos and abraços always at hand. I've had the opportunity to trade with various massage therapists as well as teach them a bit about Swedish massage. Yeah, you heard me- teach. Really informal though. Often times I'll show up to give a massage and a group of students (who are finishing up their clinical hours) are hoping to learn about this so-called Swedish massage I bring from the States. It's been incredible- getting to pass along a little knowledge, and all while stumbling along in the half-Spanish, half-Portuguese dialect of mine, doing my best to maintain some level of flow and rhythm. I wish I had these impromptu sessions on video- funny stuff.
This experience has been unique, that's for sure. Learning about a different culture's approach to massage, and in such a hands on way, is something I've always wanted to do. And in such a tranquil scene? Stepping from the noise and dust ridden favela, into this place that breeds nothing but peacefulness...I am not sure I will ever entirely grasp it.

Annie took off for the States last week and alas we have moved in with Dona Rita and family. A few memorable experiences that might make you smile...
...Col and I went to have our nails done with Dona Rita last weekend. It wasnt't until about an hour after we arrived that Dona Rita sat down for the full on mani-pedi...designs on each nail to boot. A few more ladies showed up and the chatty kathy in each and every one of them was unleashed. Col and I on the other hand, we sat and we smiled, threw in a sentence here, a sentence there. Hot, tired, bordering on boredom- that we were. And then the giggles set in...when Col got in the hot seat and the gal who was doing her nails wouldn't let Col settle for her clear nail polish request. An unsure look spread across her poor face and let's just say that Col's keeping it simple on the nailbeds was shot to hell. I'm talkin' two flowers on each nail with glitter layered thick. It was hard keeping the laughter down let me tell you. And my mani-pedi experience? A bit painful- they really get down to the nitty gritty, pulling up every last piece of skin that appears to be ded...I did my best to be discreet about the minor jolts of pain that struck here and there. I must make note of when she drew blood and of this horrific powder that she applied on the cuts- oh how it stung! Other than that, she did well- huge props to her for even touching my feet my goodness. Not good. My right foot looks like its been through WWI, and worse, when she took off the nailpolish on my big toes, she uncovered an unhealthy set of nails. Slightly yellow toned with a strange texture- sure signs of pure neglection. Damned be my fathers genes! You should have seen the gal doing my poor feet- straight worried about my situation...and in true Brazilian fashion, she wasn't about to keep quiet regarding the nastiness that sat in her lap. All I could do was smile and say, "I know, they've got problems." Thanks to her efforts, they turned out beautious I must admit...and the polish (no designs thank God) masked the big guys- Gracias a Deus.

...Meet my host-father, Jaimie. He's got this funny quirk about our eating habits. Before we even moved in he openly expressed his desire to get we American girls nice and plump..."They won't even recognize you when you go back!" He always told us. And now that we are living with him, he's on this new kick, convinced that we simply don't eat and don't like any of the food he prepares (which really isn't always true- I must admit though, the omelette made with heaps of margerine and canned sardines wasn't easy going down!)...As Col and I eat he keeps a steady eye over our plates (with a smile slapped across his face- always)...often times he'll look up at us and start chuckling (have I mentioned this chuckle of his is addicting?) with a finger swag thrown in here and there. We try to convince him of our satisfaction with his cooking skills, but I doubt he will ever be convinced...

...Meet Jose Luis, one of Dona Rita and Jaimie's grandchildren...this kid doesn't lack in the affection department- always kissin' and lovin' up on Col and I...

...Last weekend we went to Cumbuco for some much needed beach action. Pictured below is Jarysson (son of Dona R and Jaimie) and his daughter Ana Clara.

...they call us "tia"

...a few friends of mine here in terra prom. please take special note of the one below (teal background)- his name is ozias and i plan on smuggling him back into the states. since day one, he's been a favorite...a dream child. a few things that put this kid at the top: 1. he gives us dirt on the local up and up 2. he opens and closes doors for us 3. he speaks nice and slow 4. he thinks we are beautiful even though we feel the farthest thing from it, and most importantly- 5. he keeps a steady eye out for a sista...i dunno what we'd do without him!

from the roda to the renda

Colleen and I, just call us capoeiristas. That's right, alas we have taken up one of Brazil's famed pastimes and we are, of course, loving every second of it. This past Monday we tagged along with Gisa and Waleska (with whom we carnavaled) to class... really quite unaware as to what was ahead. Everyone (ages 6-26) was super-welcoming and the farthest thing from intimidating. And this, this is a must for me...because when you throw me in new situations where I am expected to perform or be in front of complete strangers, all eyes on me...yeah, no good. As some of you may already know, the big showdown in capoeira goes down in the roda- a circle of "fighters" and melody makers...all clapping and singing, creating quite the ambiance for the two who are "battling" in the center- fluid, rhythmic and circular in movement. I was transported back to the capoeira class that I was in while living in Mexico...that same rush of excitement slash nervous nelly-ment set in immediately. With a rusty knowledge of even the most basic of moves, I was thrown into the lions den and expected to battle it out. Oh you should have seen Col and I...probably the farthest thing from fluid, rhythmic and circular! All smiles though, all smiles. Where as this class definitely lacks in teaching the basics, we joined another group last night that delivered all of this and then some. It's structure was much more newcomer friendly and the teacher helped Col and I out one-on-one, with heaps of patience and kindness to boot. And this particular class takes place only 10 feet from our front door...right at the heart of Terra Prom- it really doesn't get much better! This giving us the opportunity to get to know the often times hard-to-get-to-know teenage rascals...so we're talkin' a win-win situation right here. Social outlets for these kids, especially for the boys, they're hard to come by...so watching them come together, really stoked on something, it's pretty special.

Our work with the ladies is groovin'. We gave a presentation last week which focused on planting within them an inspiration, and a desire to go out on a limb and design and create. With the exception of a few, the designing efforts of the women are lacking- and trying new things out? It's just not sought after. It seems to me that a primary focus of the Brazilian culture is the here and the now...which I think is wonderful (and which many of us strive to grasp all of our lives)...but when dealing with the business side of things, the future (and often times innovation) must be taken into account...but this is a hard one to handle for these ladies and so naturally cultural blockades are built and misunderstandings arise. Oh but the possibilities that lie within their lace-making! Endless. We have introduced quite the array of ideas in collaborating fabric and renda...and we are currently working on the creation of a few new items including bikinis and pillows (below is our first pillow! The renda is inside the bird, the rest is crochet). We've also been experimenting a lot with color, creating new color-palettes for their pieces, etc...something I was looking forward to before I even arrived. So yeah...things are really moving- and aside from the minor glitches here and there, these ladies are pumping out new pieces like you wouldn't believe, and they seem to be enthused about it. I feel as if there is a new energy moving amidst the ladies and their work...a new buzz that gives me hope that perhaps we are indeed assisting in a rejuvination of their bobbined craft.

carnaval al fresco

I must admit, it would have been nice had we fully understood the word barraca. When we showed up at our make-shift campsite (in a backyard), our miscommunication woes set in- the gringas were unprepared. Let's just say that I slept wrapped up in my hammock on the tent floor, with only a sheet to battle the cold, spooning Col the whole night through. Gotta love it. Overall, the trip was a good one though, a few minor annoyances here and there...this to be expected when you take a not-so-spacious backyard, stuff it with as many tents and Brazilians as possible, and throw ridiculous amounts of cachaça, Brazilian rum, into the mix... ruckus is usually the outcome. I do feel though that this was all overshadowed by our beauteous surroundings and by the spirit of this wee-town they call Guaramiranga (a fun word to say, especially when using that low, slow-paced voice that comes from the depths of your throat...go on, try it.). The main street, cobblestoned and charming, was the hub of all action: open air eateries spread throughout, artsy folks selling their goods made of lace, bone, feather, and wood, and festive music to back this social scene...delightful. I must make note that each and every year, a Jazz & Blues Festival comes to town for Carnaval- this alone putting Guaramiranga on the map for interesting places to be during Carnaval time...a much needed escape from the heat of Fortaleza.

Boy was it refreshing...waterfalls, crisp air, lush green... alas, my socks were put to good use! We also had the opportunity to meet up with Regina, a contact who I had been connected with via a friend of a friend (I love when things like this work out when traveling!)...and who I had been hoping to meet ever since our arrival in Fortaleza. It turned out that she and her family and friends were headed to Guaramiranga for Carnaval as well...So we met up, they took us in, nourishing our souls with nothing but love, chicken soup, and cookies made by the nuns down the street. Regina's circle of friends (probably in their 50's) and family are fabulous, quite entertaining, and all super interested in what we are doing. I took a special liking to the straight-to-the-point, stylishly-clad lady from São Paulo (whose favorite city is New York, who frequents the O.C., and who also adores Sex and the City...). How could you not fall head over heals? I am certainly looking forward to seeing them soon...

A few bits and pieces on the inside skinny here in Terra Prom...

...you know it's hot when you apply deodorant before you hit the sack- the sack being a hammock, placed right in front of a wide open door, the Atlantic only a little ways off. Without the consistancy of these offshore breezes, I'd be a goner. But I should ease up on this annoyance of mine with the heat, because I really don't mind it all that much...I will take it over frost and freeze any day, this is certain. One thing I will never grow accustom to though is the hot coffee consumption...I can hardly take down a hot bevey during the winter without having hot flashes let alone taking one down when the day is pushing 95 degrees...my oh my.

...poor Colls Bolls, she's covered in bites. Damned be those skeeters! Due to low energy levels a few days back, she reckoned she had dengue fever (she even mentioned malaria...yikes!). But thankfully, those times have passed and her spirits have since lifted. Keep your fingers crossed- that my travelmate may avoid any future contact with these winged little nuisances.

...the children here- i could go on forever. With skin of chocolate and caramel, their eyes so

excited to greet you..."tia! tia!" (which sounds like "chia! chia!") they holler as we pass, grabbing

hold of our waists, or eagerly taking from our hands bags of groceries and such. Our little

sidekicks...oh how connected i've become!

off we go to guaramiranga...

In typical American fashion, we set out for a day of errand running- Annie, Jed (Annie's boyfriend), Col, and I, but of course, things strayed from the checklists when we happened upon Pão de Açucar. This "sheeky" supermarket consumed us all as we went up and down the aisles oohing and ahhing..."there is so much stuff!" Compared to our local corner stores in the favela, well, this was another world. With a few products such as olive oil, pesto, and lentils, our culinary creativity has been soaring lately. One find that I feel the need to make note of: açai bread...tastes a bit like a blueberry bagel- it's really quite fantastic.

And this Annie character I have mentioned? I guess you could say she is the backbone of Fairloom, the one who really got things rolling...and at the ripe age of twenty-six, she's accomplished a lot of goodness. This brightly-blue eyed, lover of nature (her and Jed work on trails back in New England) has taken Col and I under her wing, showing us the ropes of the city, the favela, and Fairloom. Getting to know the ladies and their work this past week has been a treat...and hearing about their stories from Annie- I am often times left speechless. With familial hardship taken to unfathomable degrees, these women have seen a hardknocked reality. And here, among me now, a handful of these courageous and talented women have joined together to create- not only the detailed renda, but also a motivation and an inspiration, to build a communal strength both in their hearts and spirits. An inspiration indeed.

Colleen and I have recently been adopted. Our living situation will be changing pace in a few weeks when Annie heads back to the States. Our work with Fairloom will continue, but we will be moving in with a family outside of Terra Prom, only a ten minute walk from Casa Cultural (where the ladies work). Col was linked to this family before we even arrived, through a friend who had studied in Fortaleza and lived with the fabulous Dona Gita (our new mai- mother). So of course, in true Brazilian fashion, Col and I were both enveloped in this family's good lovin' and offered a nest to call our own. We have been meeting and hanging out with various members of the familia and oh what fun this has been! Last night we met up with Gisa, Dona Gita's niece, and she has invited us to celebrate Carnaval with her and her friends. Yeah, that's right, it's Carnaval time here in Brazil...and due to our last minute planning slash isolation up here on the northeastern coast, we will not be able to experience this festival via the ritz and glitz of Rio nor will we party with the blocos of Salvador. For us, Guaramiranga it will be- a scenic village perched in the mountains a few hours outside of Fortaleza. My guess is that no matter where one is in Brazil, the spirit of Carnaval is on high, and I am definitely looking forward to seeing how the colorful slopes of Guaramiranga do it up during these highly anticipated days of frenzy. Adventure certainly awaits. Stay tuned...